Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Sorry about your problems, and I trust you'll now be installing a battery disconnect switch! The time it takes to run for a wrench can spell the difference between annoyance and disaster.

Doesn't the main feed to the ignition switch run through a circuit breaker? If so, the question I would have is why didn't that trip? If not, time to install master fuse on the harness.

One thing Packard did skimp on IMO was fuses and breakers. Nothing between the battery and ign switch. There are some protections after the switch for most items but there are a few things left unprotected.

Looking at the chart Owen-Dyneto posted to another of my "smoke signals";I went to the NAPA site and found that the KS 6308 Ford ingnition switch is still listed and looks a lot like the Packard switch. The price listed was $28.09. I don't know if it will fit through the dash and if it does, how I'd hold it in place but I figure those are secondary considerations at the moment.

A question about burnt wiring for those of you with more electrical experience than me (damn near everyone). On my melt down the only wire that showed damage was the power antenna wire going from the ACC post to the Antenna Switch. Does the fact that about an 1 1/4" of insulation burned/melted off starting the ACC post back point to that wire likely being the guilty party? It and the switch are the only things damaged.

I'm thinking about putting the old switch ( the one that occassionally killed the engine) back in for a brief test to see if the car will still start & run. This time I'll not fasten down the battery clamps, leave the glove box out and have a fire extinguisher at hand. Or do you all think I'm really asking for it (and thus likely to get it) and should just spring for the $30.00 NAPA switch.

When I do go to NAPA I'll will be following Owen_Dyneto's excellent advise and buying a GOOD battery dis-connect switch. I also plan on picking up a couple of inline fuse holders; one for the power antenna switch on the '55 and the other for the same thing on my '51 which is also without a fuse for such a heavy current drawing item.

I also want to get some sort of fuse/breaker to go in the main current feed from the starter relay to the rest of the car. I know Lincoln in the 70s had a fuseable (sp) link which melted if the current draw got too big. Any thoughts on what the rating on such a item should be on the V8 models as well as the 6 volt?

If the antenna switch wire was damaged and grounded it would cause the problem you had. It would be a direct short across the ignition switch. The funny thing though is that the problem took several minutes to show up. If the wire was damaged in the installation process, it seems a bit strange the thing would sit and cook for several minutes instead of start smoking right away. Does the antenna switch feel normal?

I had the same feeling. I ran the car on Monday for almost the same length of time with no problem. Yet Wednesday it ran with me in the car long enough to knock down from fast idle, then I opened the gate and got back in, which took no more than 2 minutes, to Bar-B-Q. Not only does the antenna switch feel normal, I hooked the ohm meter to it using the burnt wire and it works fine. I don't know why I even hooked it up it the first place as the radio doesn't work - and yes, it was switched off.

The only thought I had was a small cut in the insulation which took a while for a full short to form? Can it even work that way?

The only thought I had was a small cut in the insulation which took a while for a full short to form? Can it even work that way?

It could if there was some vibration that shook the wire against whatever was cutting it. All it would take would be a strand or two exposed that made intermittent contact. Those could heat up at each touch of the metal and destroy more insulation. It would cascade and increase the contact to the point it was a solid connection and the whole thing burned.

I can't think of any other explanation. After I had removed the switch and let the car air out for a while, I hooked the ohm meter to the loose black wire and there was no evidence of a short. However, I don't put much stock in that as that wire loose probably doesn't touch the same things as that wire hooked up to an installed switch. I'm going to re-do that test while moveing the wire around but that's probably a waste of time as it still doen't recreate the placement at the time.

Why not buy the Standard brand switch # US14, It will mount up easy & it's a good alternative till you get a permanent solution. Just put in Standard US14 in the search box & get a picture of it if you want.

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I must have messed up as I didn't get a picture but I did find the KS 6308 on NAPA on line for $28.09 and reserved one. I'll pick it up tomorrow morning. Plus, I think I can install it using my "Micky Mouse Broken Ears Ignition Switch Installation Kit". More on that tomorrow.

Once again I want to thank you, Howard, Riki, BigKev, Owen_Dyneto, Craig and on a related post of mine: Flackmaster, Ozstatman, Cli55er and Let The Ride Decide. I really appreciate all your previous and continued help in this and other problems I've had.

I'll let you all know how the Ford switch worked tomorrow.