Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Howdy all, I'm Mark and I've had my 49 Series 23 for a few years now, just sitting in the garage. Lately I've been tinkerin on it to see if I can get it started, and figured I'd finally get registered here on the forum as well.

I've not yet been able to get a spark. I fixed the start switch, and (after reading here about the importance of the battery cables on a 6V system) replaced the cables with some Standard Motor Products 1/0 gauge, and I've replaced the coil with an SMP blue streak unit. Still no spark. I can use jumper cables to the coil and get a very small, weak spark from the end of the coil wire. I'm thinkin I'll go ahead and replace the plug wires next. I called NAPA and they can order for me Belden p/n 700171 (http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Spark-Plug-Wire-Set-Premium/_/R-BEL700171_0415636761). Have any of you used this plug wire set? What other options are available?

Another bit of info- There is an aftermarket toggle switch mounted under the dash. With this switch on, I get full battery voltage at the coil. However, if I also turn the key on, my voltage drops to about 5.4V. Is this the problem?

Any other advise or tips on rectifying the no spark condition?

Thanks!

-Mark

2 dr or 4dr?
re: spark
Did you check the distributor side - cap, rotor, wires, points, condenser? Things tend to corrode when they set.
Run down the engine wires and check for continuity and that juice only goes where it supposed to. Check voltage regulator ground.
NAPA told me they don't have a listing for '49 288 wires?
I reworked a set for 283.
I found the horn relay battery screw tend sot ground out. The new relay is made different so that can't happen.
FYI, I believe the correct battery cable gauge is 2/0. I posted a quality reasonably priced source, Pacer group, <$60. Mine started right up after I did all that(new wires) it was sitting in a field for 5 years.
6v requires 2 x the amperage to deliver the same power as 12v. Amps determine wire gauge, not voltage. Volts determines insulation. If you crank the starter alot with smaller wires they can heat up, and heat increases resistance, so it's a vicious cycle. Once you get it going it should not be problem but remember if its hard to start to let it cool off.

Jim, thank you sincerely for the reply! The car is a 4 door. The cap, rotor, points and condenser all look great. The wire from the coil to the distributor had a questionable connector, so I soldered a new one on, and have zero resistance in it now.

I'm not sure on the Napa parts either, I couldn't find any mention of them on this forum. However, for what it's worth, the fella on the phone had to flip through several catalogs to find that part number, and a google search of the part number looks promising. Do you have another recommendation?

I noticed the smaller gauge battery cables that were on it before were getting pretty warm very quickly. These I picked up from rockauto.com for about $22 and seem to be high quality, and have remained cool during cranking so far.

Where is the said horn relay screw located on the car? Does it matter that my horn works? And where does the voltage regulator ground? Thanks for the help thus far!

-Mark

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While a friend was working with me on my 23rd series sedan, he re-connected the battery cables, and I got a similar result. He didn't realize that this car was 'POSITIVE GROUND' and had switched the cables. A simple solution to the problem was to switch the cables to their correct poles.

G'day Mark(Sloride75),
to PackardInfo, and invite you to include your '49 4 Door Packard in the Packard Owner's Registry here on PackardInfo!

Looking at an enlarged copy of your photo of the distributor internals, are you sure the hot lead from the points isn't grounded out on the distributor shell?

Just run a point file through those points. Likely they have oxidized from sitting and are just barely conducting if at all. The 1/0 cables are the original size and will do just fine.

As to your voltage drop, that's a little harder to figure till you find out what's been changed or added. I suggest you just continue hot wiring to the coil and leave the key off till you find that out.

Thanks, next time I'm over NAPA, I'll run that number and see what's what. I'd like to find the proper wires. Someone said solid core is best. In the old days, they used to make you a set on site from you're old wires. He had the bulk wire, but not the boots and clips.
Packard Electric used to supply OEM wires and harnesses, but since they are Delphi, I don't know. All my old buddies/relatives that worked there are long retired. Otherwise, I'd have had them run me a set "off line".
The horn relay on mine sits on the drivers side on the front fender apron (between the inner fender outer fender) next to the terminal strip for the lights. The terminals are on the bottom on the original and if you tighten down it pushes the screw in contact with fender. The new one lays on its side, so that cant; happen. But that's only a for instance, you need to ring out the wires. You're on the right track since that coil wire was loose/bad connection.
I agree that cap and rotor could use a bit of cleaning. It looks liek the wire is contacting in the dist, but you should see sparks/marks.
Check your battery voltage with no load (cables off) If it's 5.4V, then that's your 5.4V problem. If it's higher then the battery is good. Even check those new cables, sometimes they can be loose.

Thank you all for the posts, suggestions, and information! I'm happy to report that I got her fired up! I verified the hot wire wasn't grounding on the distributor shell and ran some very fine emory cloth between the points - I think that was what did the trick. And that's where I'll start next time I'm workin on a points-equiped car!

Of course now I'm on to the next problem. I can only get it to run on the gas I pour into the carb, I don't seem to be getting fuel from the tank up to the carb. I thought I'd give the pump a little "help", and wrapped my air hose in a rag and shoved it into the tank filler neck...upon its removal I was DOUSED with a rush of fuel that came up...

So I figured I'd try to blow back down the line. I disconnected the fuel hose that goes into the pump, inserted the air hose and discovered the air was simply blowing out the side of the rubber fuel line, where it connects to the hard line. I removed that piece to find it quite a disintegrated mess, with the "melted" rubber blocking the fitting, etc. I then tried to blow down the hard line, again to no avail - but it occured to me that there may be an "anti-drain back" valve of some sort in the line?

Any advice here? Is there some sort of valve in the line? Should I assume my fuel pump diaphram is in the same sorry shape that line was - a gooey mess?

Thanks again for the help!

Oh, and as soon as I get her out of the garage and cleaned up a bit, I'll take some pics and add her to the registry.

ethanol gas with do a number of rubber hose not designed for it. Found out the hard way on a gas generator that had been sitting for a couple of years with gas in it.