Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

In the Model T Ford world, to remove a rear wheel from the taper fit on the axle, the official method is to thread on a (Ford Script) puller and tighten up a heavy bolt pressing against the end of the axle and then whack it with a stout hammer.

This of course destroys the thrust bearings in the rear end on the second blow.

I use the puller but I use a little hand held air hammer that provides ratty-tat hammer blows.

This tool can hold various bits from a hammer head to rivet sets to sheet metal cutters.

The rapid hammer effect pops the wheel right off with no damage further in the rear end.


Jim

I found with mine, banging on the dogbone puller with one 5lb hammer didn't do anything. ...but with two 5 pounders hitting opposite, popped the drum off after three smacks.

You need alot of weight hitting the puller.

interesting! Where do you hit the puller?

I agree with Owen that a fully functioning and relaxed brake should not interfere with normal drum removal.
Regardless of nitwits fiddled with it or not, when they've been sitting for years, the wheel cylinder may or may not be frozen(mine were) in who knows what position and who knows what state the shoes are in, that detensioning the cam might help free things up inside.

Well, this was an ordeal from hell. After working on classics for 25 years, I was shocked to find I could not remove the rear drums, hence this series of posts. I took it to my mechanic, an expert on old cars. Despite using three different pullers, a torch, a hammer and pry bar, no luck on removing the drums. The mechanic said I need a really strong puller, one he does not have.

So I took it to a garage where they only service semi trucks and earth moving equipment. They tried using a heavy puller used on semi trucks---and it bent!!! They then had their welding shop fabricate a "super" heavy duty puller, which worked. No damage to the car at all.

Needless to say, I no longer feel so bad about not being able to remove the rear drums while on my driveway! Thank you for all of your advice, I do appreciate it.

Persistence...
I was afraid to give the standard "nobel" engineering answer; the proper application of dynomite will solve most problems...
Don't forget to use the slightest bit of "never seeze" on the taper going back on. Don't want it squeezing out inside. Good luck.

Don't forget to use the slightest bit of "never seeze" on the taper going back on.

This is one of those places NOT to use it or anything else, install DRY! Otherwise you risk ruining both the axle and the drum hub. And torque the axle nut to spec or if you don't have a torque wrench that goes that high, VERY TIGHT.

I refer you to this;en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galling
Cause is lack of lubrication. That's why these anti-sieze lubricants were developed.
It's obvious why this design was tossed. Axle failures were common.

Well, we're all free to (politely) disagree, so I'll do so. First, axle failures are extremely uncommon - who has broken an axle on one of these cars? Ross - you've probably seen more than any of us - how many broken axles have you seen? Second, most any good automotive repair text of the era will caution to install the unit dry, Chrysler who used the same arrangement stressed it in shop manuals - it's the force-fit of the taper that drives the wheel, that's why 250 or more ft-lbs. of torque is advised. The keyway is secondary and if the taper joint slips, you can easily damage the key and the keyways in both the axle and the drum hub.

Just trying to be helpful - do as you wish.

Any complete failures I have seen have always been near the spline at the inner end of the axle and had nothing to do with whether the axle was taper or flanged. As far as I know even the racing Hudsons only broke axles at the diff.

Damaged axles and drums I have seen many times as a result of poor servicing and inadequate tightening. The drums then worry out to a taper that no longer matches the axle.

Tapered axles use the same principle of the self locking taper that is used to hold collets in machine tools. There is no problem with galling as there is no relative motion, plus the shafts are fairly hard. Lubrication can prevent the self locking from taking place. Then power transmission is only through the key.

I've only ever had a couple of cars that didn't have tapered axles in 40 years of spirited driving. As soon as I have a problem I will let you know.