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Howard,

Flat Plastic flexible ducting could be used to route under the carpet along the trans-tunnel. If you removed the padding from the carpet in those areas, it may not even be noticeable.

http://www.gti-usa.net/GTI-Flat-Plastic-Duct.shtml

Great R&D project. Your air flow measurement reminds me of the quick-and-dirty method my HVAC tech used to check air flow from ducts in the house. He had a propeller on a stick, the kind kids play with. He simply stuck it in front of the duct to see how fast the prop turned. He found one duct that was not flowing as much air as others, and in checking found out the flexible tubing in the attic had been stepped on restricting the flow. Your way is much more sophisticated.

(o{}o)

Kev, thanks for the link to the flat ducting. I knew that stuff was out there but couldn't find a ready retail outlet so kind of blew it off. I would like to go under dash and mount a couple of pods but there are some issues with that route as well.

I have considered some flat electrical raceway on the tunnel top or sides. Also considered running the single 1" ducts side by side. Either across the top or on the side. Both of those options are going to be about 1 1/2" added height or width so maybe 3/4 extra with padding removed -- but is not out of the running. One problem is the cutouts in the seat. Even with the padding removed, I think seat may still have to be modified to clear. The back seat will be raised to provide air flow under so not as big a deal. The front seat has a rear scallop or cutout in the metal frame to just clear the carpet. Front is wider but shallow. Those I think will be a problem.

Thanks for posting your motor test results Howard and I do find them to be very interesting. Especially their efficiency and ability to move air that well on 6 volts without any sign of overheating at least as far as your tests go. I know you were considering a 6 volt alternator which will certainly help matters so I'm encouraged by your findings! I'm sure you stated where you had planned on locating the unit in the car Howard but I must have missed it, was it to be trunk mounted or under dash?

I never knew flat ducting was even available and it sure seems like it would be the thing to use in limited height situations...that is if, like you stated, it could be obtained from a retail outlet.

Howard, just a couple of thoughts re your A/C project. You've mentioned that your expectation is not necessarily to 'cool the whole car'. That made me think of my situation recently where a fault in the A/C in my Nissan caused the air outlet to be jammed onto "feet/floor" all the while. So while the entire car was still being cooled to a nice comfortable temperature all I wanted was a bit of cool air directed at my face. Without that cool air in my face the car felt too warm. So I got the aircon vent jigged to give me face but no floor/feet. Now I'm very happy (and feeling cooler).

Moral is: A breeze in your face is worth two on your feet.

Second point: a routing option for ducts / wiring etc through a relatively clear passage (from under the dash to the trunk / back seat) could be via the sills (rockers). I guess you have considered that way but I've mentioned it in case you haven't.

You would have some space to insulate the ducts and the environment is likely to be cooler down there rather than up high where the turret gets quite hot through the sun on it.

I'm with you on wanting air in the face. Makes all the difference in the world. Actually hadn't considered the sills so thanks for the suggestion. Once I can bend again without experiencing whole new sensations, will have to look and see if a possibility on this one.

I read about your project and really admire all the effort. I have a 1950 Series 23 which I am restoring a bit at a time the hard way while trying to use the car. I am 73 and feel your pain.
Fred

To the originality guys, I'm sorry to report that I have not yet come to my senses and am still muddling around with the AC. Car may never move from it's present spot but as long as it has AC, things can't be all bad. Anyway, made a few more decisions on the mounting and air path so have been working to implement them.

The spare tire created a bit of an issue in that the narrowest modern unit I could find is wider than the trunk shelf and would have covered a substantial portion of the tire well. The vertical body structure in the middle is sloped and prevented the complete unit from going any more toward the front. Decided to split the unit and put evaporator on one side of the structure and blower on the other connected by a large but narrower duct. That way the bulk of those items can fit into the space between the structural X channels without the vertical piece interfering. That lets the unit move forward and will allow the spare tire to be in it's regular place -- although it will be vertical instead of slightly tilted forward.

Made things so the entire assy is on a plate which will bolt in position and also support the 3 sided repro looking evaporator case a poster on another forum is making for me. Hopefully, when all is done, this AC will essentially resemble a Packard unit with very little if any modern to be seen. Once the false case arrives, will decide what else needs to be fabricated in the trunk.

I did have to make a substantial change in return air flow from the original to what is needed for this unit. The original had a duct setup which was under the evaporator and went down in front of the trunk shelf to open under the rear seat. To make that work here, I would have had to substantially rework the structural pieces behind the seat as well as figure out how to get air to the return side of the modern unit. As a consideration for the originality guys and the next owner, like all my mods, aside from a few small screw holes there will be no cutting or modifying done on the car and anything added can be easily removed with minimal traces left over.

To that end, decided to make a thin plenum which fits behind the seat back. It will pull air from the top via two narrow grills at the front of package shelf on either side of the center outlet. The entire bottom of plenum is open to continue to pull air from under the seat. The evaporator return side fits into the plenum to complete the connection. The seat back is approx 7/8" forward of it's normal position but doesn't appear to be too noticeable. Bottom will be raised slightly for the air flow and may also move forward if comfort dictates -- but so far it seems to fit. Time will tell how effective the setup is.

At present I'm going with a single outlet in back and air is also ducted over the headliner to front. The single rear outlet for now is modern but the same gentleman is also working on a repro of the original style duct. If that duct should become available, have made things so it could be accommodated. Also have made sure a second rear duct could be added if I decide not to cut the headliner for the front air outlet and just live with the rear duct only setup.

The compressor mount is the one thing that is not living up to expectations. I had wanted to use the original prewar bracket but am now thinking it is too bulky for the Sanden. That neat mount Ross came up with is looking better by the day and am seriously considering scrapping this mount and going with a version of his.

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Howard,
Your imagination and creativity with this AC system is nothing short of brilliant. I'm wondering how many bathtub owners will be hounding you for the vital statistics of your design. Right now I'm wishing your car was a 51-54 so I could be hounding you as well.

What type of finsih did you apply to the "X" bracing behind the rear seat and the shelf where the Evaporator will mount in the trunk?

yup, i'm enjoying this thread as well.