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Watch out!!!

A non-electric space heater in an enclosed space is just asking to get you asphyxiated.

Craig

Agreed, Craig. The corners of the plastic aren't taped together and the top edges aren't sealed against the walls either, so it's pretty porous and there is airflow. The hangar isn't insulated or airtight either, and I'm in and out through the corner flaps a lot too, so I think we'll be safe. I might get a CO detector in there though, that wouldn't be out of line.

We seem to have hit our high temp for today, it's up to -15F outside at 3:30pm. Supposed to be the same tomorrow, so it looks like a good day to bead blast and clean up parts in the main shop at work. Why waste the propane.

Hans, I have several spare wheels when you need them. One of the the things I found out on my 39 is if you plan on having tubed tires, pay particular attention to the area inside the wheel at the valve stem hole. This area is often pitted and rusty. If you don't fill the pits with Bondo or JB Weld or something similar, and sand it smooth, as soon as you start driving, the tube will rapidly develop tiny leaks around the valve stem. I got three miles before I had my first flat until I figured out what the problem is.

Also, be sure to look at the Parts X-Ref file to find modern numbers of things like thermostats, relays, spark plugs etc. Nice to have when you go to the local parts store and the kid behind the counter asks "Who made Packards?" I usually answer "Hewlett". That usually confuses them nicely.

The 2 front rims weren't too badly pitted, I did have to buff some pits in the bead of one but overall not bad. The valve stem areas were sealed by the rubber seals of the stem assemblies, and there isn't any rust there. Hopefully the rear rims will look as good, both of those are still holding air.

Here is a picture of the valve stems that are on the rims, one is apart to show the layup.

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Where were we, oh yeah - time to create some access to the engine bay. So with some help from my son I removed all the bits needed and then we got the front fenders off the car. The canvas skirts that are attached to the inner fender splash panels are petrified, so we'll need to stitch up some new ones at some point. I'll have to try to clean these enough to be able to lay them out for patterns.

And now we can see the engine, notice on the left side the extra heater hose for the tank heater - that is one way to keep the engine warm for cold weather starts. Folks mostly use headbolt or pad heaters now, so when you see a car with an extension cord going to it that's what is going on. I won't be keeping this so that fitting by the starter will be replaced by the normal plug.

On the right side, I think that we're missing a vent tube from the valve cover. And there seems to be some kind of stalagmite where a fuel pump should go.

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Interesting on the tank heater. Don't think I've ever seen one. Dad used the dipstick heater on his 51 back in that era. Is it electric or if not, how or what heats?

Not sure what you mean on the fuel pump. I see what appears to be a vacuum side sitting in positon but not enough detail on the area because of the A arm.

That nice round hole where the breather tube should go is a perfect mouse door. Not sure if they can get past the baffle but will be interesting to see if any took residence amongst the valves. A friend in Washington left the fuel pump off his rebuilt engine -- just tape which loosened covering the hole -- and mice took residence in the empty oil pan.

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Howard, the tank heater is electric, there was a cord hanging out of the grill. The hose was plumbed from the fitting by the starter and then teed into the normal hose over near the trans cooler area.

The fuel pump comment just means that there is a lot of dirt and old grease covering the pump. I normally work on airplanes so I'm not used to that much dirt, amazing to me that stuff still works that way sometimes. Like for instance the front suspension - the airplane mechanic in me wants to disassemble the whole works, make it all new, and put it back. But I imagine if I just clean it up, pull the frozen zerks and use a little bit of heat to flow the old grease that stuff would be good to go as long as I don't detect any play in the bushings etc.

Anybody have thoughts about what you had to do for that stuff?

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I think you are right. Particularly on a non T-L suspension. Be sure to check the upper inner control arm bushings because they are 1st to go. You can still get those from a common auto parts store (check the Xref on this site).

Craig

You are missing the vent tube for the valve covers. I think a have a spare in the bone yard out back.

I agree with Craig on the suspension bushings. They are available, cheap and relatively easy to change on that car. Better to do it now while all is apart than drive a few days and have 60 year old rubber start coming apart in chunks.