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For mine, a new rear main seal, speedo cable, rear wheel bearings, rebushing the stabilizer.

Rechromed front bumper/dagmars/lower grill.

If I have anything left, new headkiner, windlace and package shelf.

If I still have money left, I may actually get to drive it...

Pat - looks like to you didn't get much response to your question.

On the 56 Carib: Other than trying to track down a couple of rattles, no projects planned - just driving it.

On the 34 Eight: It seemed time for a little preventative maintenance on the Northeast distributor. New condensers definitely in order - they've been there at least 20 years. No need for special condensers, I just use AL-869s which are pretty universal in application. Points are an issue, they have been NLA for many moons and if available at all, several hundred $ a set; but the tungsten is very thick so I diamond stone polished them and bent the stationary point as needed for alignment. But first I removed the breaker plate, cleaned and lubed the centrifugal advance mechanism (no vacuum advance on these units), cleaned out the old grease in the grease cup and channel and refilled, oiled the top wick for the slip joint, etc. But the major reason other than the condensers to service the unit were the insulators for the hot leads as they pass thru the (grounded) metal stanchions. Originally there were bakelite bushings and washers for electrical insulation but the bakelite was beginning to crumble so I made new insulators from nylon. Hopefully I'm set now for another 10-15 years on the ignition system.

These Northeast units used in 33/34 are interesting units as they are really two 4-cylinder ignition systems with dual coils and corresponding dual rotor contacts - I thought some folks might enjoy a photo. The distributor cam is 4-lobed, not 8. You may notice one set of points is fastened directly to the base plate and the other is on a moveable plate that rotates in an arc about the center. The reason for this is that you have to time both sets of 4 cylinders separately (or synchronize the two sets of points beforehand). You time the first 4 cylinders in the conventional manner by rotating the distributor and time #1 cylinder. Then you move the timing light to #6, there are a second set of timing marks on the vibration damper and you time the second set by moving the points on the moveable base plate without rotating the distributor. Of course Packard offered a nice little tool to avoid this and synchronize the two sets on the bench - if I can find my photo of the little tool I made for this I'll add it later.

Even though it performs flawlessly, I've been toying with sending the carburetor out to Daytona while parts are still available - it was last rebuilt back in the 70s. But in the end I'm going with the "if it ain't broke....." policy.

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Such an expensive system with dual everything probably meant it was used high end only but for how long? I'm sure there were reasons it was probably worth the cost but the only advantage I can think of is maybe with only 4 lobes a longer dwell time so maybe a fatter spark? Were there any other advantages such as if half went out, would the car still limp home?

After body work and new paint, I'm hoping to install my rear fenders, taillights, trunk lid and luggage rack. The car's been apart for nearly 2 years now, and it's time to put it back together.

HH56, yes you can limp home on 4 cylinders (did it once) but I suspect the primary reason was the walloping hot spark! This system was used on the Eight and Super Eight in 1933 and 34 only, but it was used on the Twelve right to the end in 1939.

I have three of mine on the road so far and I've already been touring Spotsylvania Courthouse with them.




The cruise ins begin this weekend around Fredericksburg so I might start venturing out and ghosting them.

I have one more, the 39, which should be on the road this summer, then I am going to start doing the Overhaul thing on my Dad's Packards

Hi All. Different axle shafts, (ones damaged), changing rear gearing from 4.1 to 3.9, engine flush, hope to repair my heater core. And between all that, drive it somewhere, don't care where, just drive it.

2014
1. New rear axle bearings. Done.
2. Remove (Refurbish) and re-install rear springs.
3. Refurbish clutch, new plate and throwout bearing.
4. Replace temporary front elevator connections in window mechanisms
5. Add window cranks to rear window mechanisms
6. Fit doors better
7. May need to replace head gasket
8. Reinstall Stromberg carburetor (Carter in there now).

on the 39 -
figure out why the speedometer doesn't work and correct it.
Overhaul the windshield wiper
Redo the driver side running board - passenger side fixed
drop oil pan and clean out any gunk
drop gas tank and replace gas gauge sender float
clean up the R11 overdrive and install it
save up money for a repaint and reupholstery (this will probably take 3-4 years!!)

On both the 39 and 51
Flush the brake fluid and add new
Repack wheel bearings
Adjust brakes

Thank you all for the detailed answers.
I'm getting to know my car fairly well; it's fascinating to see what you go through with older cars.
I'm also relieved that I'm not the only person with a fair sized list of things to do!
Parts are probably easiest for the v-8s; sympathize when they are absolutely unfindable.