Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Have never needed an electric fuel punp for my 40, which one is the best to buy these days. If possible don't want it loud, would like it small, and I heard some come with a pressure regulator. On my two other Packards have not used the regulator, I am told that the Packard carbs have heavier duty inlet parts and usually do not require a regulator?
Thanks.

One of the regional Packard clubs is selling them-

Not sure which pump the region carries but Airtex is another good brand that has been around for years. Whichever brand you choose, pay attention to the psi rating as some put out over 10psi and would definitely need a regulator.

Airtex has a couple of pulse type 6v pumps suitable for carb use and should not require a regulator. Many have installed those next to the fuel tank and use in conjunction with the original pump. Check out the E8902 at 2.5-4 psi or the E8011 at 5-8 psi.

They also have the E84259 which is a rotary vane type at 4-6psi. That one would need to have more elaborate plumbing to work with the existing mechanical pump and smaller Packard fuel line but would fit the criteria for quiet. Available from many places but Amazon also carries all of them at reasonable prices.

I installed a 2.5 -3 psi pump near the gas tank.(You can find them on eBay for $35.00). It runs off a toggle switch under the dash. Many times I just keep it on. Gets along fine with the mechanical. It has made starting a breeze. Less wear on the battery... Many do it to prevent cavitation or vapor lock... Never had that problem again neither.

Here is the source for the "Genernator" for Packards and other vintage cars:
Don's Starters & Alternators
(541)902-2255
www.gener-nator.com

Don is very knowledgeable and easy to work with. He knows what "restored" and "original" means. His work is great and he does what he promises.

Originally I was put off by the cost, but if you add up these items I spent money on it was well worth it:
1. Buying a proper generator and regulator so the car will look authentic (my car had a Chrysler generator and a later model regulator).
2. Restoring the generator and regulator including the proper ID tags (Don has the proper tags for show quality).
3. Fixing the generator and regulator so they work (the Genernator is new inside).
4. Having the regulator adjusted by an expert so it keeps up with the engine rpm and charges enough to match the accessories (not required becuase it is a one-wire alternator, and the original regulator is only for looks).
5. Buying a new battery becuase it won't hold a charge after it went dead trying to start the car with a low charge (should not be a problem on my car which is only driven on short trips).
6. Towing the car home when it would not start at a car show (nightmare should be gone now).
7. Figuring out how to get enough amps when driving at low speed to power the add-on accessories I wanted to put on the car to make driving more reliable and enjoyable (cooling fan, electric fuel pump, radio, fog lights).


I got the Genernator because I wanted my Packard to look authentic but work properly. At first glance the cost seemed high, but if I had gone for the Genernator from the beginning my cost would be half of what I actually spent.

Good Morning all...

As far as Batteries are concerned, I have had the best luck with a 6 Volt, 800 Cranking Amp Optima. I have two of these beasts and one cranks over my 31 Model A Ford and the other cranks over my 1949 2362 Packard with a 288 cubic inch engine. The funny thing is that they crank the Packard just as fast as the Model A. I did have to modify the battery holder and I do use the original generator.

Thanks, Ernie

I went through electronics hell with my 1950 Standard Eight. I had the car completely rewired and all contacts were made shiny. I replaced the generator, battery, voltage regulator (several times), starter solenoid, overdrive electronics, light bulbs, you name it. The battery still kept dying or running down.

The problem turned out to be the connections in the ammeter, in the instrument cluster. Turns out all power has to pass through that ammeter and if there is a "bottleneck" there, the juice doesn't flow like it should.

Make sure that the engine is grounded to the frame. I had a 1950 Eight that was otherwise dead reliable that ate voltage regulators. I had it for 13 years and finally one of many mechanics that worked on it figured it our shortly before I sold it

Regards

John Harley

I just solved a charging puzzle that I thought I'd mention because it was an easy fix. I have a 1950 Standard Eight that I use as a daily driver. In it is a 6V battery I bought at the local CarQuest store in October, 2011. I usually get ~3 years with these batteries.

The other day I walked away from the car and left the fog lights burning for a couple hours. On my return I was pleased the engine fired right up and that the relatively short drive home seemed to be sufficient to bring the battery charge back to "full."

Yesterday, however, the ammeter needle swung hard over to the "charge" position and stayed there all day. I ran errands in Seattle and then headed 45 miles south to Tacoma to have dinner with a friend. The needle stayed hard over all the way down and all the way home--more than 90 miles at freeway speeds. I wondered if the battery was somehow having a delayed reaction to the "lights on" event of a few days ago (unlikely), if the battery wasn't charging because it was on its last legs (reasonable guess), or if some more expensive problem was lurking (heart-stopping terror).

Today I grabbed an almost-empty jug of distilled water I had lying around. I pried off the battery's three filler caps. The fluid levels looked a little low, but not terribly so. I topped off the battery chambers, using no more than a shot glass of water per chamber. I replaced the caps and fired up the car.

The ammeter needle swung over to the right and stayed there for a moment. But over the next few minutes it drifted back to its normal position: just a shade to the right of dead center. It stayed there while I took the car for a test drive to the liquor store and back.

Problem solved--with about six fluid ounces of water I already owned! And the best part was that I could now go back to using my shot glass for the purpose God intended it for!