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Hello,

On the ground side of the ignition coil (positive ground), I have two wires. One that goes to the points inside of the distributor and another one that I don't know where it goes.

The wiring diagram that I have for the car does not show the extra wire. In fact, I can't find any reference to the extra wire anywhere. I was thinking that maybe it was a way to pick up engine rpm for the overdrive but I am not sure.

I changed the ignition coil and I thought I was very careful to put all wires back correctly but now I am worried that I put one of the negative 6 volt power supply wires on the positive ground side of the coil. If I did, I may be interfering with the point spark and the flyback action of the ignition coil.

The car won't start and I don't seem to have good spark. I have ordered new condensor and points even though they look good.

I think it is best to remove this wire and see if the spark is renewed in case I put it there by accident. I believe that is the safest thing to do.

If that is the case, then perhaps the wire was a 6 volt supply wire and belongs on the other side of the coil.

Obviously, I don't want to hook it up to the other side of the coil without knowing what it is.

Can anyone tell me why there would be an extra wire on the coil? And what is it supposed to supply a circuit path to?

Would there be any reason to pick up the point contact action for any other part of the circuit in the car? Like some sort of rpm counter?

If not, how can I test to see if it is supposed to be a 6 volt supply wire?

I would appreciate your comments.

Thank you,

The extra wire is probably the overdrive ign cut out. If you have the R9 OD it goes to terminal 2 of the large 6 terminal overdrive relay. Your 49 should have the R11 OD so it would go to one of the upper terminals on the kickdown switch.

The wire is part of a circuit operated by contacts in the solenoid and relay if the R9, or the solenoid and kickdown switch if the R11. The purpose is to kill the spark for a few milliseconds so the engine loses power. When kickdown is called for, the circuit is completed & dist terminal on coil is shorted to ground so the spark misses a few beats and torque drops. During that time the solenoid spring can retract the plunger. Once the solenoid plunger is completely retracted, its contacts open and spark is restored.

The circuit has been known to cause issues if a wire shorted or one of the switches or contacts stick. If the car was working fine before the coil change, chances are the circuit is OK. It won't hurt to temporarily disconnect the wire to completely rule out any OD problems causing the no start.

If the car has sat for a long time or the ign was on for a long period with engine stopped while points were closed, there is a good chance the points have oxidized. Changing them or at least touching up the point surfaces with a contact burnisher or point file would be a good start. If you have been working in the dist, also make sure any of the old fabric covered wires that may be between the points and outside terminal has not lost insulation and shorted.

A low condition in the battery, corroded battery connections, or not having the large 0 or 00ga 6v battery cables are other persistent reasons the spark is weak.

Thank you.

That is a great explanation.

Actually the car has very old wiring. And the previous owner wrapped a lot of the wiring in black tape.

I have had some problems with shorted wires already in the past 6 months since I got the car. I am only the 2nd owner and first owner is no longer available.

So obviously, a new wiring harness is one of the top priorities.

I will start by removing that wire.

Also need to make sure the new coil is the right one without the resister.

I believe only the coils for 12-volt systems came with an internal resistor, or required an external one.

(o{}o)

New correct coils from NAPA/Echlin:

IC-7 if you have an Autolite system
IC-9 if you have a Delco system

O_D, curious as to why there are different replacement coils listed for Delco and Auto Lite. Seems a universal replacement coil would work for either application. Do you know the reason for the different coils? I know there are differences in 12-volt coils as to having an internal resistor or requiring an external one and terminal types. Thanks

(o{}o)