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Perhaps the original Delco numbers for replacement parts would help.

The contact points were #1918148 and were shared with many other cars:
1940-52 Buick
1949-55 Cadillac
1940-55 Olds 8
1940-56 Pontiac 8
1951-56 Studebaker

Likewise for the condenser, the Delco number was #1869704, used for most GM cars to 1955, including Chevrolet.

Thanks for the numbers! I was able to get the condenser Owen_dyneto recommended as a universal replacement. Put it in and no spark. While I was in there I swapped the coil with the one that came with the car. No spark. The points should arrive tomorrow so fingers are crossed that it will solve the problem.

Got the points from Napa. Asked them if they had the flexible distributor leads and he had no idea what I was talking about.

As soon as I got home, I went to work. After a struggle I got the distributor out. The points Napa said replaced the CS 77 are not right. Pic below. I'll have to return them. I'll try the numbers BDeB posted. Maybe they can get me the right ones that way.

Since the distributor was already out, I got the idea to put the distributor from the '51 in, even though I remember Ross saying it was a no no to mix distributors from different sized engines.

The distributor numbers are close, but different.

I put the '51 in and tried it, but no spark. I would think the car would at least make a few sparks. Maybe the issue is not with the distributor?

I even put an extra jumper wire from the coil to the screw on the distributor and a jumper from the other side of the coil to the negative terminal of the battery (positive ground) and no help.

I guess I could buy another coil, but I'm just throwing parts at the problem now. Can I use the spark plug tester between the coil and distributor to confirm the coil is working?

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CS777A is the right number for the points, and I use an RR174 condensor. Are you sure either of these sets of points is conducting? If you are using a test light, with the points open you should get a light when you touch the lead from coil to dist. With the points closed all the power should go through the points and the test lamp will not light.

Or you can do the same thing with a voltmeter: when the points are open you should get close to 6v on the lead from coil to dist. With the points closed, it should read essentially zero. If not the points have oxided over and need to be filed so that they will conduct.

In addition to what Ross suggested, try the coil without the dist. Use something insulated to hold the wire and touch the lead coming from coil to the block. As you remove the wire from the block you should get a spark. If you do then coil and input voltage are OK. If not, then you need to investigate why no spark from just those pieces.

I didn't check to see if these numbers are still valid but here are some Napa ground wires from a couple of years ago. They may not be a locally stocked item and might have to be ordered -- or something comparable can be found on ebay.

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Thanks guys,

Ross, when the problem first appeared Howard recommended the test you described. I had the points open and read 6v at the coil to distributor lead. I bumped the engine to close the points and still read 6v. Looking at the service manual, they recommended replacing the points.

By putting in the '51 distributor, I thought I would prove that I was having distributor issues, but that one did not spark either. I should have dressed those points (even though visually they looked clean). I'll try that today.

Thanks for the correct points number. I will order those.

Thanks Howard for the coil test procedure. I will give it a try to verify it is working. Those lead numbers will help. Hopefully they will understand what I am looking for. Those prices look better than the one on Ebay too.

Well ordered the points but they won't be in until Tuesday. Tested the coil without the distibutor and it sparks when i put the wire near the block. I ran a file through the points on the '51 distributor and tried to start the car again but no spark.

9-30-14

Got the points (and finally my overdrive switch) from Napa. Looks like the right part. I updated the part number in the X-Reference.

Started to install the points, but decided since I have it out, I might as well put some paint on it. I stripped it down removing the backing plate exposing the weights. Is there something I should do to check those? Should I grease them?

When I removed the side screw (the one that connects the distributor lead wire to the points), I noted that the insulating block is cracked in half. Could this be my problem? Can I glue it together or do I need to source another one?

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As long as the stud or wire was not touching the case in any way then not likely to be the problem. You can glue the insulator if you find a glue that will do a good job and stand the heat. If the piece is just cracked but still stays in the slot or hole with nothing falling out or off you may not need the glue. It could get worse so wouldn't be a bad idea to source an eventual replacement.

Thanks Howard! It is split in half, but I think it will stay together with a little glue and pressure from the nut on the back end holding it to the distributor.