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I came across this article on the web about repairing temp gauges. Has anybody tried this method yet and if so how did it work?
ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge

It works very well. I did it for a friends car when the original SK article came out & biggest problems then were finding the sleeve material and a good fast soldering iron that was maneuverable. It does take a good fairly high wattage iron. I used a Weller 250 watt gun type but I notice the author is using something temperature controlled but undoubtedly less.

Sleeve was a pain and don't remember what I finally used but now lots of stores & most hobby shops carry brass tubing in assorted sizes. I believe the original article in SK called for a putting the bulb and tubing (leave gauge outside) in freezer for a few hours which I did. The bowl of ice is an even better idea since you do have to move fairly quickly once the tubing is cut.

EDIT: One thing that is not mentioned is all the tubing -- but old tubing in particular -- has to be absolutely clean, grease and everything else free or won't take a good solder coat. Clean it very well for a few inches before cutting.

Tin the area of EACH tube PRIOR to cutting. Not after, as the instructions indicate.

Tin the INSIDE of the splice tube and blow it clear with compressed air before it solidifies.

Solder the splice tube to the gauge tube first. Then cut the bulb tube real fast and stick it in the splice tube and apply heat.

NOTE that tinners solder or tinners paste is NOT solder. The pieces have to be tinned with tinners solder so that the solder will stick. Tinners solder (paste) is kind of like a primer for the solder.

I'm not sure if it matters or not but keep the bulb and bulb tube LOWer than the splice are. Kind of like u're working with water instead of ether.

PV8 makes a good point but just be careful on how much solder is residual-particularly in the sleeve. Capillary action will suck the least little bit extra right into that miniscule bore so would take pains to leave the un-tinned areas in the middle of sleeve and ends of cut tube. If it does get into the bore of tubing, don't think you'll be able to save it.

jjust be careful how the heat is applied. Molten metal FOLLOWS the heat. i.e. molten metal is drawn toward heat. so heat near the ends of the splice tube.


My only question is how do u cut the tube with out collapsing/distorting/burring the tube???? My tubing tubing cutter will not go that small. Use a cut off wheel????

I just looked at the pictures on article again and that is exactly what he's using and a sharp awl to open up--also a temp controlled soldering iron.

he uses a tubing cutter???? Must be a really small cutter. Mine will do 1/16 tubing. I think that's as small as mine will go.

Sorry not specific. He's using a Dremel cut off wheel per your last question.

i wouldn't use an ice pick to open up the end of the tube. Use a small drill bit in a pin vice or a drill chuck that has been removed from the drill motor.

The ice pick mite tend to flare the end of the tube a little bit making the sleeve difficult to install.

I know this is an old thread but bringing it back to top since my gauge needs to be repaired.

Does anyone know where I can purchase the gauge that is in the repair link?

Or is there anyone out there repair that can repair our original ones?

Thanks