Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Randy,
I was thinking the same thing. Has the filler pipe also been adjusted?

Ross,
Thank you for posting all the pictures and explaining the "how to" and "how I did" from the body off to the gas tank.

This is sort of general education, so I thought I would toss it in this old thread.

When I was younger and dumber I would see a flaky portion on the cup of a tapered roller bearing like in the first photo. I'd then look at the rollers on the inner portion and assume that if they looked OK then all I'd need to do is replace the outer cup.

But actually, the nice looking rollers were covering up a perfectly nasty inner cone as shown in the second photo. No wonder this axle was noisy even though the damage to the outer race looked so minor. Lesson, don't be a cheapskate--if one is damaged, replace both inner and outers.

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>man i wish i had me a shop and a lift!

Better yet...I wish I had a "Ross" hanging around!!!

I also wish Ross had posted this tip before I removed my dad's engine and transmission from his 1949!!!

My experience was posted a couple of weeks back and I removed only the grille and the radiator core support and jacked the back of the car up really high and used a regular cherry picker and a Harbor Freight leveler and the engine and transmission with OD came out fairly simply. It took about 8 hours single handed and after I removed the rear transmission mount (called the rear engine mount I hear) I had the back of the transmission strapped up with a nylon ratchet tie down strap. The clutch mechanism was a bee-itch to remove...and I am concerned about the installation...

Perhaps "Ross Technique" would have been much preferred method of reinstallation as I could install the engine and transmission/driveshaft in the car and then lower the shell on top of the rolling chassis.

Sooo...How did the factory put these things together in the first place...engine and drive chain chassis assembled in one area of the plant and the body assembled at another location in the plant and then lowered onto the rolling chassis (ala Ross) is my guess.

Being on a trip and away from the car...I sit here in wonderment...and contemplation...with many questions...such as...

1. Why does the gas tank need to be removed? As opposed to simply leaving it connected to the underside of the body and disconnecting the gas pipe?

2. So I understand you left the steering gear (steering box) attached to the steering column and unbolted it from the chassis and removed the pitman arm...so the steering gear is hanging down from the steering column shaft? I ask because I also need to replace the seals on my dad's steering gear.

3. Does the radiator really need to be removed or can the car be lifted strait off with the hoses/pipes removed.

4. Not being a "Packard Guy"...how are the body bolts routed to disconnect the body from the chassis? Are they accessed from inside the car?

At this, I have the engine and transmission out of the car and I have to re-seal the steering gear...perhaps it would be easier to still transition to the Ross Technique and roll the chassis out from under the car and then install the engine/transmission, electro-magic clutch linkage, exhaust, etc on the rolling chassis and then lower the body back onto the car...

Hmmm [head scratching emoticon added for dramatic emphasis] ....I might could even start the engine while it is on the chassis and inspect for leaks and even make adjustments /tuning ect before I lower the body back onto the chassis...

I take the radiator out for fear of stressing the front sheet metal. On the 51-56 cars the gas tank has to come out as the neck is under the frame.

For a really wonderful film about how cars were built in the fifties, look on youtube for a Chrysler film called "Wishes on wheels" Get the full length version-- it is highly informative and interesting. Packards were built in similar fashion.

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Bill (Packard 1948), here's the mentioned video.

<iframe width="500" height="375" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/b6L0ykX9lPU?rel=0&controls=0&showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

To cut a corner -> jump in to watch the "rendezvous".

Vielen Danke Guscha

Very interesting and fun video to watch!!!

From time to time I need to change color on some wheels that already have tires mounted. These came from an abandoned restoration project that I bought cheap off Craigslist. Because of all the curves, it is a royal pain to mask off the tires with tape and paper.

I use a 6' piece of heavy aluminum flashing and a couple of clamps as shown to make a paint tunnel. It sits tightly around the edge of the rim and on the tire. I give the wheel a couple of coats and pull it off straight while the paint is still wet. I put it on the next wheel without wiping it off. Little problems at the edge can be touched up with an artist's brush, but they tend to be small. I painted all 4 rims in 15 minutes--less time than it would take me to drive to the tire store once.

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