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(1) 2 »

Support bar behind the Radiator
#1
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Ernie Vitucci
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Good Morning all...

I am working on our 1949 23rd Series Deluxe 'Miss Prudence' and I'm looking at a curved u-shaped channel that is just behind the Radiator. It extends down about 3 inches on each side and connects with the rest of the structure that supports the front clip. However, it doesn't seem to be bolted in place, perhaps driven into a clip of some sort. Has anyone experience in taking this channel out and then putting it back in? Thanks, Ernie

Posted on: 2015/5/21 12:32
Caretaker of the 1949-288 Deluxe Touring Sedan
'Miss Prudence' and the 1931 Model A Ford Tudor 'Miss Princess'
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Re: Support bar behind the Radiator
#2
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HH56
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I'm curious now. I was under the impression the 20-23rd series Clipper based body front clip construction was very similar with allowances for the shorter grill. I don't see anything on my 21st series cradle that would fit your description -- just two round welded in diagonal stiffener bars between mid side and bottom in the cradle behind the radiator. Apparently there was something different with 22-23 cradles. Do you see the channel on this parts diagram or is the curved top the piece in question?

Attach file:



jpg  (43.79 KB)
209_555e1bde78bc4.jpg 533X692 px

Posted on: 2015/5/21 12:56
Howard
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Re: Support bar behind the Radiator
#3
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Owen_Dyneto
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IIRC correctly the cradles were not used on the 356-engined models, just the Eights and Super Eights.

Posted on: 2015/5/21 13:21
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Re: Support bar behind the Radiator
#4
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Ernie Vitucci
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Good Morning...I piece that I am refering to would be the curved top piece of 11.0045 on your diagram. Thanks, Ernie

Posted on: 2015/5/21 13:22
Caretaker of the 1949-288 Deluxe Touring Sedan
'Miss Prudence' and the 1931 Model A Ford Tudor 'Miss Princess'
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Re: Support bar behind the Radiator
#5
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JD in KC
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Quote:

Owen_Dyneto wrote:
IIRC correctly the cradles were not used on the 356-engined models, just the Eights and Super Eights.


You remember correctly.

Posted on: 2015/5/21 18:39
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Re: Support bar behind the Radiator
#6
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Mike Burkhart
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To answer your original question, my 1950 Deluxe 8 has the piece you are referring to. If you are wanting to remove the radiator, you don't have to remove the piece. The inlet and outlet will clear that piece. It is tight, but will clear, If you feel like it has to come out anyway, I have been told by other Packard folks that they cut the piece on the right side with a hacksaw, then when they are going back together with it, put a piece of strap iron behind it and drill, then put two screws in it to hold it in place. It is barely noticeable when completed.
Thanks,
Mike

Posted on: 2015/5/23 12:14
Proudly using my real name for 67 years.
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Re: Support bar behind the Radiator
#7
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Owen_Dyneto
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It appears to me that the yoke is an important structural component of the nose framing; I'd be reluctant to remove it by cutting it but if it did, I think I'd want more than a couple of screws to retain it.

Posted on: 2015/5/23 15:33
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Re: Support bar behind the Radiator
#8
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Mike Burkhart
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Just what I heard from other folks. I did not have to cut mine, as the radiator cleared it just fine when I removed it.
Thanks,
Mike

Posted on: 2015/5/23 17:14
Proudly using my real name for 67 years.
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Re: Support bar behind the Radiator
#9
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Ernie Vitucci
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Thank you everyone. I was working of the design of a radiator shroud to help 'Miss Prudence' in the hot southwest. If the removal was easy, then it made the addition of the shroud quite easy. I did figure one out, guided by Deluxe Cunuck's fine work on this subject. I've taken photographs prior to putting the radiator back into 'Miss Prudence'. Now the trick is to figure out how to follow the instructions to post the photograph on this web site. Ernie

Posted on: 2015/5/25 10:06
Caretaker of the 1949-288 Deluxe Touring Sedan
'Miss Prudence' and the 1931 Model A Ford Tudor 'Miss Princess'
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Re: Support bar behind the Radiator
#10
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Packard 1948
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Ernie,

If you are referring to the 11.0045 piece my dad's 1949 Series 22nd Super "Granddads Car" has this piece installed. It is essentially a one piece unit constructed out of two pieces (bottom "U" and top inverted "U") that are spot welded together.

When I removed the engine I drilled out the welds that held the top inverted "U" so that I could get the engine out without needing a super tall engine hoist (cherry picker). I will need to use sheet metal to patch up the holes and after the engine is installed I will bolt it back in with self tapping bolts (two on each side).

Posted on: 2015/5/25 14:29
Bill,

Dedicated to keeping the man who owns one on the road!!!
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