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Yup. O D is on point again. I had used that test many times if the load testing shunt was unavailable

The 8 volt system is generally not the way to go.

If you connect a meter from the BAT terminal on the generator and the car frame as ground and there is any voltage less than your battery your generator is not working.

With the motor running of course.

measuring as above, take a clip lead (wire with a couple of aligator clips) and briefly touch the F or Field terminal on the generator to ground.

If the generator is working the voltage will rise fairly quickly so don't leave the wire on long (seconds).

If everything in the car is 6 volt I would go back to 6 volt Pos ground.

A lot of people tweak the regulator to get it to run 8 volts. Regulators are specific to neg or pos ground.

Usually improper battery cables are the cause of upping the voltage, which I should add will shorten the life of light bulbs which are getting harder to find.

Jim

Hi Ernie,

I know Robert, Cal and the guys at Custom Auto very well. I don't think there is a better group around for my Packards. Unfortunately, I now live in Cambria, about 300 miles north. Once I get the '52 running (charging) reliably, I'll be driving it down to Robert to have them check it out for me and get a few things done that I want. If I still lived in Irvine, this would all be easily addressed. Unfortunately, I split my time between Beijing and San Francisco and make it to Cambria - where the '52 is - maybe once a month for a day or two. Haven't been to OC for well over a year. I miss it.

Unfortunately, there is only an indicator light on the '52, not an ammeter. But, I do have an auto repair shop in the small complex where my garage is. I am sure they have the equipment HH is talking about. All friends. If I can get there on a week day, they would help. I am just trying to do what I can on the occasional week end.

I appreciate the help and suggestions from everyone on the forum here.

Sure, testing the charging rate with the proper equipment is best. But even with a GEN 'idiot light" you can still make a determination about the adequacy of a generator's charging rate (amps) with just a voltmeter. Follow what I described above, running the engine with the headlights, heater and other electrical accessories on and a voltmeter across the battery. If as you increase engine speed the lights get brighter, the GEN light goes out, and the battery voltage rises to above that of a static battery (about 6.4 volts) to perhaps 7.3 volts or so, the charging system is effective. If the battery voltage falls to less than 6.4-6.4, the charging rate is inadequate. If the battery voltage falls into the less-than 6 volt range, you probably have no charging.

Jim,
for including your '52 250 Convertible Coupe in the Registry!

Just to close this out. Thanks to all for the help. I pulled the generator and had it rebuilt. I was told there were several flat spots but the tech felt it would charge, just not very well. I also bought a voltage regulator. I replaced them (and the idiot light bulb) together. Now everything works.
The charging light comes on at low idle and the system charges great. I don't really know which component was the issue, but I feel like the charging system is pretty reliable now.
One less thing to worry about while cruising with my little bride..
Again, I really appreciate the helpful suggestions.