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Agreed that it is a 120 body with a 160 motor. However, that data plate MAY be legit.

Yes, I did look over the numbers and the third (and crucial) digit seems sketchy. For a 160 it needs to read 1477-XXXX and for a 120 it should read 1497-XXXX. I cannot really tell if it was a 9 and was restamped as a 7. The photo is not that good and looking at the reverse side might help tell if it was restamped.

What does send up my antennae is the VIN number and the number on the title. They say the VIN is 149752028 and the title says 14975I2028. Why he threw in the extra 5 or 5I is beyond me - maybe to confuse the facts.

My guess the real number on all the paperwork is 1497-2028. And that would make sense for a 120 model car. This is what cinches it for me. I suspect the prior owner found a legit 160 data plate(shown) and ditched the original.

BTW, my 160 convertible sedan is 1477-2021, has a firewall (theft-proof) number of 569739. His data plate shows 1477-2038 (assume it is correct) yet a firewall number of 557106. So how is it that my data plate number is lower in sequence, yet my firewall number is higher in sequence by 12,633 bodies? Something is going on here.

Another clue are the radiator shutters - they are open. The 120 models have shutters that are fixed open. The 160 models have thermostatic controlled shutters that are closed at rest.

And what is up with the red interior and along with a green firewall, underside of deck lid and footwell trim piece.

But folks are interested. He now has 12 bidders and is up to $5,100. Damn!

I notified the seller that is a 120, and he responded that he would change the ad.

I see nothing hinky so long as the vehicle is represented as a 120 with 160 engine and (some)trim. Then buyers can decide what it's worth.

I know of two nice drivable/showable 160 convertible sedans (a 1940 and a 1941) that recently were bought and/or sold in the $50,000 range. Is it really worth it to buy this one, complete its transformation, and end up with a fake?