Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

I won't use a battery tender. NOT for any thing long term. I would not use them on anything. Especialy on small batteries. I've known of at least 3 incidents over the last 10 years where the battery tender, used on NEW motorcycles burned up the battery over a 4 month winter time layup of the bike.

Best policy is to check voltage every month or two, and charge with a regular battery charger for maybe an hour at LOW setting IF battery is low.

SOME alternators have a constant draw on batteries but it is very low amps. Probably milliamps. So anyone with aan alternator conversion might experience a low batterycharge after just maybe 2 weeks,

Voltmeters:
Use an analouge (gauge type) voltmeter for SERIOUS diagnostics. DO NOT use any voltmeter that requires batteries. THe so-called multimeters can and will give false readings depending ona variety of circumstances.

Fluke is a top brand so if you have one, great. Make sure it can read DC amps using the clamp function. Some clamp ons can't utilize the clamp function on DC. Speed of sensing or refresh rate is also important.

I couldn't justify the cost of a Fluke for what little measuring I needed a clamp on for so purchased a lower cost meter. It reads AC/DC to 600A as well as some other VOM functions so suited my needs just fine. My 356 seems to be pulling around 225 amps but it has the gear reduction starter.

Here is the meter I bought thru Amazon but there is a later version available. You can search the brand name and model to get the precise specs from several other sites.

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I bought my meter at Sears for about $70 or so.

Ran around this morning and checked some cold engines:
51 200, 288 engine, about 50 degrees, 230 amps.

54 Clipper 288, about 35 degrees in the shed, 270 amps.

50 Stude Champion 35 degrees in the driveway, 190 amps.

I have also noted in the past that the gear reduction starters draw less than the direct drives.

Good info, Ross. Thanks.

I have access to one of those clamp meters, but have never used one. Do you just clamp it over one of the battery cables while starting to get a reading? What setting should the dial be on?

There should be a setting for A or Amps. Depending on the meter there may be only one Amp setting but if there are two the settings will probably have some sort of indicator next to them. It could say AC or DC or if symbols, one most likely is a sine wave that looks like an S laying on its side for AC. The other probably has something that looks like a straight line for DC. Use the one which says DC or has a straight or dotted line next to it.

Most meters are auto ranging but if not then set the scale for a number greater than expected. If you are looking for 200 amps set the meter on whatever scale it has that will read higher like 300 or 600. If you set too high and the reading is relatively low then set to a lower scale and do again for more accuracy. Do check the max reading the meter can handle. On a clamp it is not as critical if you go over -- it just won't read or will flash an error indication but on those that use leads you could blow the internal fuse if trying to measure amps over the limit of the meter.

Just clamp the jaws around the battery cable and make sure the clamp closes so the two jaws touch each other. Crank the engine and read the value. If you get a reading that is really strange like being very low such as 2 or 3 amps when you expect 200 then the meter may not be able to sense DC thru the clamp.

New battery, starts perfectly even when hot. NAPA had tested the bad battery, and claimed it was good. That wasn't the case. Spent $100 on the starter rebuild, and $60 on the pro-rated battery, so it wasn't too bad.

That doesn't say much good for NAPA's battery test, I assume it was some type of electric load-tester? I'm (as most all know on this forum) pretty old-fashioned; I still rely on a battery electrolyte hydrometer for battery testing - perhaps a little messy but to me the most valid method of battery testing.

Oh, yes, they used their high tech tester that prints out a little slip of paper that reads, "BATTERY GOOD." I was skeptical, but had no other way to test it. I did use my hydrometer, and it was on the line between fair and good, but the voltage was still reading 6.32, so I gave NAPA the benefit of the doubt and removed the starter to get it checked out. It probably didn't really need new field coils, but at least now it starts like new, with the new battery.

The lesson I've learned is, careful with battery tenders- they can cause the electrolyte to evaporate in a hot garage, leading to sulfation. You just have to stay on top of them, and keep the cells topped up. Better yet, just drive the car frequently, which I was not, because of the cooling issues. Now that that's fixed, I'm driving more, and when I take it apart for paint and body work, I'll just give it a charge, and remove or disconnect it.

I must add that battery tenders are perfect for gel type batteries, like the Optima I have in my Mustang. I rarely drive it, and the tender has maintained the red top Optima for years.

Since my High Desert Oregon shop is not insulated yet and gets bitterly cold and very hot for long periods of time, I have a roof-mounted 100 watt solar panel and charge controller to keep them active when I'm not there. It seems to work quite well and doesn't overcharge. Ultimately the shop will be totally solar powered (120v and 240v) with enough to even run the compressor and small MIG welder.

Does anyone know the proper cable lengths for the '51 to '54 models? I'm finally about to start doing some work on my 1954 Patrician and that will be the first thing to be replaced while adding a new battery.