Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

You can get the water distribution tube out without removing the grille. Thankfully.
Remove the waterpump.

OD - Respectfully, I don't think 400-650 is current pricing. I wish it were. I would think 650 is on the LOW end if the shop owner likes you, or doesn't know what he's getting into with these old brass tanks...

G'day all, I would suggest that removing the front clip is the best way to replace the radiator, avoid the skinned knuckles and check out the normally out of sight items. It is even easier if it doesn't have sidemounts. I moved my radiator into the surround about one-half inch when I installed a 54-327 and R6 overdrive into a 38 120, to avoid having to remove the front clip to change the fan belt. I have removed the front clip so often it appears to cringe when I approach it with any spanner larger than 7/16th AF. Best regards Peter Toet

Radiator will not clear the pump, it must be removed prior to snaking out the radiator. Water dist. tube pulls straight out of the block with pump off and radiator removed. Mine has 2 small tabs at the pump end to maintain it's position in the block. You can re-use it as long as it's not rotted out (old time coolant mixtures were evil) just make sure the holes are all open and you're good to go. A recore job is gonna be in the 750 or 800 range, due to the labor intensive nature of the project (don't cheap out here). I guess you'll have to figure your best option of cost versus labor/time if retrofitting is a direction worth considering.

thank u all once again.
here is todays work. i have a new fan belt no slipage at all. i can let this thing run idle for ever and it stays at 180. as soon as i drive more than a mile or 2 i start seeing it creep up till eventually it pegs the gauge. once i stop it settles back down to 180, i also noticed there is no spot for a thermostat,as the ridge in the head i would expect to hold a thermostat is missing. i suppose i will add a thermostat to the upper hose as in my 29 model a
i made up a set of plug wires today as well from an old hei
set i had here. runs nice and smooth now.
im thinking this radiator is comming out on saturday.

Is a replacement coolant tube available? Can it be fabricated?

Almost anything can be fabricated. If I was going to try to make I think you would need to borrow one, or get detailed pictures and measurements of one.

I think start with a piece of hardwood the correct length and then shape it to fit inside the borrowed tube. Once that is done you have your shaping buck. Then you get a suitable replacement material, something like thin brass sheet or aluminum sheet. Bend it around the form long ways and then solder the long butt joint, and cut a piece of sheet for the plug in one end and solder that into place. Then drill all the distribution holes. Then finally remove the wooded buck. Voila! A New Distribution tube.

Now for a quick Billy Bob and Cooter version:

Buy some 1" (or larger depending the outer perimeter of the distribution tube) thinwall electrical conduit. Flatten it into a "similar" shape as the original.Cut to the correct length. Plug one end, and drill the holes. Voila! Temporary Distribution Tube.

Just some ideas of the top of my head.

Quote:

If your 1935 is like my 1937 Six, then the thermostat should fit in the water outlet housing. It will require a retainer to secure the thermostat in the housing. A thermostat of 150 to 160 degrees rating is needed. Max Merritt and other Packard parts suppliers sell them. Merritt sells a kit with the thermostat, retainer, and gasket. This is what I used for my 1937 Six. These cooling systems are of the non-pressurized type. No pressure cap on the radiator. Now is a good time to replace hoses and clamps. All hoses are straight, so buy needed length from your local auto parts store. Try placing some heavy cardboard on the engine side of the newly re-cored radiator to protect it when fitting it back into the car. I recently re-cored the radiator in my 1947 Custom Clipper and the prices ranged from $750 to $950 depending on type of core used. I went for the 7 row staggered tube option (also the most expensive).Good luck, and let us know how this repair turns out.

.....I think I will go with the "Billy Bob and Cooter version if necessary.

Any reason Aluminum or copper tubng would not be practical?

Lowell