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I believe the part they refer to possibly being left out and needing to place the OD in lockout position to have reverse gear is pertaining to the reverse plunger assy. The modification to the transmission is a place for the plunger to rest and an extension on the reverse gear transmission fork to contact the plunger

Placing the OD in lockout via the knob makes the planetary and sun gear a solid unit in the R11 by virtue of the lever moving the long rod it is attached to. That is coupled to the end of the lockout shift fork which moves the sun gear rearward to engage its teeth with some teeth on the ring gear. Since the sun gear is also splined to the input shaft meshing the two completely locks out the planetary and overrunning clutch operation to make it a solid unit for transmitting power.

On an R11 when reverse is selected the plunger slides back into the OD and pushes against the side of the lockout fork which moves the sun gear and locks things together. The fork is spring loaded and slides on the long rod so the lockout lever portion doesn't interfere.

The same is accomplished in the R9 by the lockout lever or reverse plunger moving a splined collar instead of the sun gear. That collar slides over the ring gear and the sun gear coupling them together. Sun gear doesn't slide on that unit and planetary arrangement is slightly different too. Because of the different planetary and over running clutch assy and coupling method that was one of the problems with the R9 and being prone to the reverse lockup.

In the R11 when the solenoid and pawl is engaged so the planetary and overrunning clutch operation is possible the reverse plunger is prevented from moving thus locking out the possibility of the transmission fork selecting reverse gear. The R9 reverse plunger moves the collar to lock out the planetary but just has a detent interlock affair. It is not a complete block of the plunger so does not have as strong an interlock to completely lock out selecting reverse gear. Reverse can be forced on the unit causing the lockup problem

What size wrench for the Overdrive Governor and can the Overdrive Governor be removed while the Overdrive is under the car? Or would I have to drop the transmission to remove it?
Also I though that someone had posted some pictures of taking an Overdrive Governor apart and cleaning it up, or was I mistaken? If so does anyone know where?
Thanks for the help.
Wes

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You can remove the governor without removing the transmission. I am not certain of the wrench size but I think more than 1" . I removed the one in my '47 several times. IIRC I used an appropriate sized thin walled open end wrench. It is a bit tight in there.

It is larger at 1 7/16. In post 10 from this thread at AACA is the particulars from a fellow who made one.forums.aaca.org/topic/128677-41-overdriv ... ng-and-tool-kmo-608/?hl=%2Bgovernor+%2Bwrench Some have used channel locks and mention of a strap wrench is also a possibility.

Wes, I used large channel lock to remove the governor on my 47 Custom. You can do it with the unit in place. I was very careful not to grip the housing too tight. It broke loose easily and then just unscrewed. I removed the top and cleaned it; although, is was not dirty. It is a simple device with some fly weights and electrical connections. I tested it with a variable speed drill connected to spin the weights to make sure it was working. Again, the governor was functioning properly, the problem was in the wiring from the relay to the solenoid. Some idiot did not connect the wire (guess who?).

(o{}o)

I did it by grinding down a pair of pliers to 1/8". Just want to confirm that once you have a grip and move to unscrew just slightly, it unscrews easily.

O, this is a channel lock. Learn something every day.

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Thanks to all for the help so far, notice I did say "so far" that means I'm still going. Got a wrench off ebay "AN8505-19 Offset Open End Service Wrench 1 ?" 1 7/16". A little long to use so I cut one end off.
It came off very easy, must have been removed before and put back on with just a 1/8 of turn after it stopped turning by hand.
So I've started taking the unit apart and cleaning it up. Now I wondering if anyone would have a manual for this unit or maybe what should and should not be lubed.
As always thanks for any and all suggestions.
Wes
P.S. Also looking at using a cabinet knob the the Overdrive Cable.

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Don't remember ever seeing any specific info on lubing governor -- or working on them at all for that matter. There was an article on waterproofing and one or two about engagement speeds and that the speed point could be changed by the adjust screw under the tar. IIRC, Packard cautioned their mechanics it was not a good idea to mess with the screw because it was easy to get it totally out of whack and suggested replacing with a governor from another model with a different calibration if the operator was unhappy. Believe governor was mostly treated as a remove and replace item if there were issues.

I would think a minute drop of oil on the pivots for weights would be sufficient. Just make sure nothing excessive can run down and get on the contacts. Also a drop on the shaft but that one in your photo looks like the trans oil may be seeping or being forced in and coating things -- either that or the oil vapors could be condensing inside. I don't remember if the OD has a separate vent or if it shares with trans but would wonder how well the vent was working.

If you have the standard OD cable with 1/4-28 threads on the shaft Yesterdays Radio makes the correct repro knob in beige to match the others in the car. Am sure price would be considerably more than a comparable cabinet knob though. McMaster has some larger threaded knobs if you don't find something locally.

Well I'm almost ready to put this post to rest. I tried to go the cheap route and use a hose clamp, at the end of the shaft were the flex line connects, but no matter hold much I tightened it, it kept slipping. So I did the same thing Howard did with the two half clamps, got them from Amazon (Climax Metal 2C-031 Steel Two-Piece Clamping Collar, Black Oxide Plating, 5/16" Bore Size, 11/16" OD, With 4-40 x 3/8 Set Screw) works great. just a few more things to do and I can call it done.
Wes

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I know this is an old post, but here is a DIY from 1957 how to fix a slipping cable.
Wes

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