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Could you combined the two parts? Fuel pump from the '52 and the vacuum pump from the '51?

John

Good thought but all the 51 pump is rebuilt and the 52 is not. I'm assuming the 52 pump needs to be rebuilt because it was bypassed in favor of a 12v battery and fuel pump. I'll have to take the 51 pump off and find out why the pin is coming out.

I'll have to take the 51 pump off and find out why the pin is coming out.

It should be very obvious, there really were only two methods used, either it was staked or used a clip. It is important that it be secure, I had a friend with a Packard V8 and his pin came out; the arm fell into the timing chain cover and destroyed both gears, the chain, and the fuel pump eccentric. Had another friend with an L-head who lost it on the road, fortunately it fell harmlessly into the oil pan.

Yes I'm glad this happened in the driveway and not on the road! Been so long since I did the pump that I can't remember how it was attached but I'm guessing it was a clip. I'll know more when it's out. Supposed to be a nice weekend so maybe I'll take it out Saturday.

There are 6volt pumps available there for not too many dollars, if you want to swap out the 12V one sometime? (I can send a link to the supplier if you want it).

Just a thought to keep in the back of your mind, but since there's already a 12V pump installed you could do the swap if / when you want to get the system back onto 6Volts. That has the added benefit of providing a solution to the dreaded 'vapour lock' if it ever happens, plus you can prime the carby before cranking the car, reducing the strain on starter and battery. I find my car starts straight away after turning on the electric pump for a few seconds. Otherwise I'm cranking it over for a while to get fuel along the lines and into the carby.

Oh my car is already back to 6v. It was one of the first things I did. The 12v setup was not working well anyway. I used the harness I made for the '51 to replace all the wires in the '52.

I have been thinking about adding a 6v fuel pump as well for vapor lock. On one of the drives I was doing, the car stalled and I had to spray starter fluid in the carb to get it going again. I think if I had the electric pump I could have ran it and it may have restarted easier.

Got the fuel pump out today. Looks like everything is still intact so I'm glad I don't have to fish for parts. I guess I have to take the whole pump apart now to get the pin in and see if it is bent. Looks like it should be held on by clips but both are now gone.

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Well thought I got lucky because I was able to get the pin back in using a nail set on the other side to help line the parts up without taking the fuel pump apart. installed new clips on each side of the pin. Reinstalled the pump and cranked and cranked and no gas to the carb. I put the battery on the charger and will fight the battle another day.

3-15-16

A couple of days ago I took the fuel pump out. Today I was able to disassemble it. Looks like the diaphragm on the fuel side came off the middle arm of the lever. The diaphragms look to be in good shape still.

I reassembled following the instructions in the service manual. It is very hard to move the arm, but when I get it down, I here the "toot" noise so I guess I have it working again.

Not enough time to put the pump on the engine today. If the rain stays away this week hopefully I can get it back on the engine and try it.

I also bought the Airtex E8011 6v electric fuel pump off of Amazon that seems to be the pump of choice. The plan is to use it only in an emergency, during vapor lock, or when the car has been sitting a long time to prime the carb. I still have the period looking toggle switch that came with the car to run the 12v fuel pump that was added. I will just have to rewire it under the dash.

I'm a little confused if I need a regulator for it or not. I have heard some use one and some don't? I'm confused...

I would wait on a regulator. The pressure rating on the E8011 is 5-8psi. The 52 mechanical pump output spec is 4-5psi. If you mount the E8011 near the tank so it pushes fuel thru the length of the line and thru the mechanical pump the pressure should be lowered enough via line resistance and valves in the mechanical pump that it won't need a regulator. In the odd chance you do have flooding issues due to pressure then you could always add a regulator later on in the hose right after the E8011.

Thanks for confirming that! I was hoping that would be the case.