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Hello all,

I would really appreciate some advice on the tasks I need to do before pressing the start button; the engine in our 1935 1201 Eight Coupe was last turned over in 1993:

Do I need to wash the fuel tank? Is there a guide to doing that?

Do I need to flush and clean the radiator and cooling jacket? Is there a guide to that?

Do I need to clean the fuel lines, pump, carburettor? How are those tasks done?

What fuel do I buy? It used to run on leaded super.

New 6V battery... any particular spec/source?

Do I need to do anything to the distributor/leads?

Do I replace the spark plugs?

Do I need to check compression? Is that a possible task for a home hack without proper tools?

Do I need to replace the old black oil... there seems to be plenty in the sump?

Is there anything I've missed?

Is there one good web source for how to start up an old neglected engine? If so, my apologies if I've wasted your time here.

Sorry to ask so many beginners' questions at once! Really appreciative for any help you can give.

Cheers from Tassie, John

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At the very least, I would change the oil and make sure I have clean fuel going to the carb, weather it is off a gas tank or cleaning the gas tank. This is just to start the engine. Changing the spark plugs will add to your success rate.

G'day John(JMc),
to PackardInfo, and good to see another Aussie on board. In reply to your questions:

Do I need to wash the fuel tank? Is there a guide to doing that? - Probably, but at the least drain all the old fuel out it'll be really stale and will stink. Be careful in undoing the plug under the tank, over the years it's probably stuck and will prove difficult to start turning. Use some penetrating fluid and "hold" the boss it's in so that doesn't try to turn, if it does you'll have a real problem. As to cleaning the tank, depending on what comes out if it doesn't appear to be too gooey or have flakes of rust or other crud in it, just flush with clean fuel until it too is running clean.

Do I need to flush and clean the radiator and cooling jacket? Is there a guide to that? - Probably not at this stage, presume it to be OK until proven otherwise.

Do I need to clean the fuel lines, pump, carburettor? How are those tasks done? - After the time it's been sitting, Yes. Disconnect the line between the tank and fuel pump and flush with a cleaning fluid, I've used Brake cleaner, then blow out with compressed air. The fuel pump and carb, after sitting for so long with old fuel in them, have probably "gummed up" as the fuel has evaporated. They should be removed, taken apart, cleaned and new kits(gaskets, valves, etc) used in putting them back together. Saying that, you never know, but you might get away with not doing that, there seem to be plenty of stories of "I just added fuel and a new battery and it started right up".

What fuel do I buy? It used to run on leaded super. - Just run it on 91 or 95 or 98 Unleaded. Avoid the "modern" fuels with ethanol in them. If you like you can add a lead additive, available from the service station when you buy your fuel, but probably not needed for these old engines

New 6V battery... any particular spec/source? Buy the one with the biggest CCA(Cold Cranking Amps) rating you can find that'll fit. Sorry can't help with a local supplier(I'm email a PACA member in Tassie who might be able to advise of a local supplier). See in your picture your battery has been moved into the engine compartment, the purists will "tut tut" over that! But don't worry, I too have done that and I use an Optima battery(another "tut tut" too).

Do I need to do anything to the distributor/leads? - Probably, but at this point of time, if it was running fine when last started, I'd leave these.

Do I replace the spark plugs? - Yes, won't hurt and a fresh set of correctly gapped plugs will assist starting if nothing else.

Do I need to check compression? Is that a possible task for a home hack without proper tools? - Probably a good thing to do this as often, after sitting for some time, valves can stick open. All you need is a compression gauge to fit your spark plug thread, gauge should be available at motor parts suppliers. But.....I'd probably hold off on doing that until you get the engine at least turning over. If it fires but doesn't want to contine running, or runs very roughly, I'd then look at that.

Do I need to replace the old black oil... there seems to be plenty in the sump? - Although its termed black gold, the stuff that goes into our old engines usually is a golden colour. It's the effects of running that turns it black with combustion by-products contaminating it. So - change it! I use Penrite WPR30(10W-40) see pic below instead,(Age isn't helping my memory!) as does my mate Wade who has a similar engine to yours in his Packard. I see, at least here, that Supercheap Auto here has Penrite on special this weekend. The other thing here is you should drop the sump and clean out the build up of sludge that's accumulated, it's surprising how much there can be. At least, drop the little round inspection plate at the bottom of the sump, and after doing that visually and manually(by feel and with something flexible to reach inside) inspect the inside of the sump.

Is there anything I've missed? - Like many of my answers - "Probably"

Is there one good web source for how to start up an old neglected engine? If so, my apologies if I've wasted your time here. This Website, which has lots of knowledgeable, experienced and friendly Packard people is as good as any in my opinion! Also the PAC Website is another great Packard Website. There are plenty of threads with people asking similar questions on both sites, so give the search facilities a work out!

Now for something different:

I invite you to include your '35 Packard in the Packard Owner's Registry

As Secretary of PACA, mentioned earlier, it would be remiss of me not to invite you to join PACA where there are also lots of knowledgeable, experienced and friendly Packard people!

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I might add to put some penetrant in each cylinder before turning it over. Lots of folks here recommend Marvel's Mystery Oil. Let is soak for day or so. See if you can turn the engine by hand. If not let it soak.

If it turns free by hand, then change the oil and spark plugs. Of course the fuel should also be checked as Oz states.

Hope to see your progress!

Thanks very much for the replies and the excellent information contained therein. I will start organising the items I need to tick off the tasks recommended.

Mal; how much oil will I need? Will one 5L container suffice?

I have added the car to the register as requested, and I'll rejoin PACA (was a member for a couple of years in the 80s, but long since lapsed).

I'll no doubt come back with more questions, and I'll keep you posted on our progress.

All the best,

John

John,
for including your '35 Eight Coupe in the Packard Owner's Registry. A question, who's behind the wheel?

You'll need more than 5 litres. Depends on what the manual says for your Packard, and that will probably be in quarts(US) if the manual is printed in the US. But.....there's an easy conversion as 1 litre is almost exactly equivalent to 1 quart(US). Check with the dipstick as you fill and creep up on the mark as you get close. Another thing, does your Packard have an oil filter? I didn't see one in your photo, unless it's hidden away? If you do have a filter it would make sense to change that at the same time and overfill the engine slightly so you'll have oil available to fill it. One other matter, after you start and it runs for a while the oil will circulate and fill galleries, etc and will need to be topped up.

I'll alert our Membership Secretary as to your intention to rejoin PACA, it'll be good to have you back on board.

John,

Another matter in returning your Packard to life, besides getting it going, is making sure it stops and steers. So, concurrent with engine and fuel systems reviews please check that the steering is tight and that the brakes are in good condition. Am I right in thinking that '35 Seniors still had mechanical brakes with "power assistance" and hadn't gone to hydraulics yet? I'd at least pull the front drums and check the linings and drums for wear. If you're doing that also check, clean and repack the front wheel bearings with new grease. And, seeing you have to jack the front end up to do that, also check king-pin play while the wheels are up in the air.

"A question, who's behind the wheel?"

That's my son. He helped wash off all the dust; hopefully he'll stay interested as the restoration progresses. Attached is a picture of him sporting some outrageous rumble-seat goggles we found in the car. Don't tell him I posted it; he'll murder me.

"So, concurrent with engine and fuel systems reviews please check that the steering is tight and that the brakes are in good condition."

I'll be happy if I can get the engine to run first. Haven't even considered moving it yet! Will follow your advice on that in due course.

"Am I right in thinking that '35 Seniors still had mechanical brakes with "power assistance" and hadn't gone to hydraulics yet?"

Yes, I understand so. Will investigate the brakes in future months.

Thanks again for all your advice.

Cheers for now, John.

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I see it's a RHD car so I assume that it spent it's whole life down under. I don't think there were a lot of them made, and even fewer left.

Lots of good advice has been provided, let me emphasize a few points and add a bit more.

"Do no harm" is the mantra to follow when trying to start the engine for the first time in so many years. I'd say it's essential that you first drop the oil pan and clean it and clean the intake screen on the oil pump. What type of oil you use the first time isn't very important because after an hour or two of running, you should dump it and change again. I'd recommend you NOT use oils with viscosity index numbers above 40, the engine assuming it's in good condition is best served by thinner oils which move at much higher volumes - this is especially true on this engine for the cam follower rollers. If you can find it, a simple SAE 40 detergent oil is a good starting choice assuming you're starting with a relatively clean engine internally.

I don't know what batteries are available down there but here most folks with this series Packard go for a Group 4 Commercial Truck & Bus battery, more CCA than an Optima. NAPA 7210 was the preferred number a few years ago, it may have been renumbered since. Clean the terminals of course and remove and clean the ground cable where it attaches to the frame. Note that the battery correctly belongs under the front seats, not under the hood!

At some point in the future a full tune-up is probably in the cards, but at this point pull the distributor cap, file or burnish the ignition points to remove ancient oxidation, and regap. A new condenser would be adviseable - any universal ignition condenser will suffice, they don't much care about polarity, voltage, cylinders, etc. If the existing spark plugs look clean and have a proper gap I see no reason to change them at this point.

The fuel system is probably unserviceable so I'd go with the recommendation that you fit a handing gas can and feed the carburetor directly by gravity.

Put a couple of drops of oil in the water pump and generator oilers, and give the grease cup or oiler on the distributor a bit of lubrication. Check the fan belt tension. If you're ambitious, pull the large plug on the timing chain cover and check the tension on the chain - deflection of 1/2" or preferably a bit less either way is OK; adjustment is by pivoting the generator.

Before trying to start, see if the engine cranks over at uniform speed. If not, try the recommendation above of some oil in the cylinders. If it seems to turn over well, crank it with the ignition OFF until you see some movement of the oil pressure gauge before turning on the ignition.

If it starts, as soon as it's warmed up retorque the cylinder head bolts to about 63 lb-ft. Check for coolant and oil leaks. Listen for unusual or unexpected noises from the engine and take note of what kind of oil pressure is obtained.

Don't be at all surprised if when it starts it fails to run on all 8 cylinders, it's to be expected after that long storage that 1 or more valves will be "stuck" in the guides. That situation may resolve itself after running for a while, or may require some engine diaassembly to resolve at later time.

For some further ideas you might want to read this on The Packard Club forum:

packardclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=859

Good luck! A fine car.

And yes, vacuum power boosted Bendix mechanical brakes and in proper order they are superb brakes. Before putting the car onto public highways you should pull all the drums, check the linings, drop the cables and lubricate the cables internally with a graphite/moly grease, grease the brake shoe tips and cams, etc., and do a good adjustment (not a trivial job!) - the brake adjustment procedure given in the 1934 Service Letters is excellent.

Assuming all goes well, engine has good oil pressure and runs on 8 cylinders, consider doing a compression check at some point, if for no other reason as a reference for the future.