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JW, that does help, thanks!

One follow-on question: what the heck is this tube coming out of the intake manifold for? On the lower end there is a brazed on fitting of some sort, but air passes through it in both directions freely. My initial thought was some sort of relief valve if manifold pressure built up (instead of vacuum) but the tube passes air freely in both directions.

I was looking at the car today because it seems to whistle, quite loudly, and if I put my finger over the hole, the whistle ceased, but the car also died.

You can also see in the picture that I have some rust coming through on the underside of my intake manifold. I may have to shop for a new one anyways - the threads for the outer bolt of the three that hold the manifold together were only partially complete. It is holding for now, but we'll see.

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Intake manifold drain valve. Used on many makes and models up until about WW II. The idea was to drain away excess raw gasoline from the manifold such as might accumulate during over-choking, excess mixture, etc. There should be a ball check valve at the bottom such that with the engine not running, the valve is open but when running manifold vacuum pulls the ball up and closes the valve. If it's not working then you will have a constant vacuum leak.

Honestly, unless you want it because it belongs there and can fix it if needed, you can remove it and plug the fitting - as was done a couple of years later.

Excellent! Thanks. I knew I had a vacuum leak based on the symptoms - I'll plug it and we'll be all set. Again, thanks.

Edit: Just ordered the stuff to make a set of wires from Brillman (7MM copper core, cotton braid with gloss black lacquer) and a vacuum gage. I already have new plugs, so unless I need new points or a rotor, I should be all set for a tune-up next weekend. Now that I write that, I may just get a new rotor, points, and condenser so that it is all new at the same time. Either way, I should have the old girl purring next weekend.

Well, I haven't gotten the car fully tuned up yet, but I did plug the intake manifold drain line and rough in the idle. Put about 30 miles on the car this morning with some friends who were in town, and then took it to a local cruise-in. Won best in show! There were only about 20 cars, ranging from an all original, quite rough, 1919 Model T through a couple of hot rods, a nice '62 Corvette, and a brand-new Mustang and Camaro. Pretty fun, and I got some free ice cream out of the deal!

Just curious....does your manifold riser valve work? It appears to be tight against the drain valve line. It is currently in the closed position in the photograph. If the counterweight does not swing down as the engine heats up it will run very rough. If it is free to rotate then fine...Just curious. Peter Toet

Thanks for the backup! It is and old picture, I lost the ball for the ball check valve, so the line is removed and plugged for the time being. I just rebuilt the heat riser, and it works great!

Aooga aooga... resurfacing here. After 4 months of training, I am home for a few weeks. The old girl is happy in her new garage, and we'll be taking some trips around the island. Pictures to follow.

Ahoy Ken - Welcome back, or I am to say up? Yes, get some time behind the wheel and enjoy your R&R.

Had quite the weekend with my old lady - some time under the hood, a car show and a cruise.

For starters, I wanted to complete a tuneup I started in June after I installed a new carb in May (moving sucks!). Just prior to moving, I put in new plugs and wires, inspected the points and set the gap. That was in June. I ordered a vacuum gauge before moving, and was finally able to use it. With the gauge plugged into the port on the intake manifold and the engine fully warm, the car is pulling 18-19" of vacuum. I was not able to lean out the idle anymore, but it is still running rich. The symptom I am trying to eliminate is heavy black smoke when the engine is fully warmed up. The carb was rebuilt last fall. The choke is fully open. The timing sounds good to my ear, but there was too much rust on the flywheel to be able to see the timing marks. Next weekend I'll try to clean the flywheel off before I have to hit the road again - any tips for marking? Just white paint paint in the grooves? I also have at least one valve ticking, so an adjustment is on my work list.

In a tradition learned from others, I took the Packard out for a parts run. It also provided the chance for a fill up - it took 17.5 gallons of ethanol free with the gauge reading about 3/16 before the fill up.

Entered the car in the the Volusia Region AACA car show. I had the only Packard at the show but I met several Packard owners. There was a beautiful '31 Auburn convertible sedan there that the owner will show at the Amelia Island Concours next spring. Won best unrestored original, but I was about the only one there. Still nice to get a trophy - it's a wine glass, so the wife is happy about it.

Finally, took the family out for a drive of about 25 miles today. Everything worked great! All in all a good weekend of Packarding, and I am learning that Florida is the opposite of Idaho or NY - the winter is for being outside down here, not the summer!

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What a great post, Ken. Lovely car, Lovely family, and I really like your house by the beach, looks like the neighbors are far enough away not to be bothered by any cloud of black smoke....ain't life grand.

Oh, and take a look at Corey's post on his 40-110 project....see if you have any young man in the hobby advice for him please.