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My 1948 2262 sedan has the EC intact but does not operate.When I press the lockout switch on the instrument panel the idle speed speeds up or slows down . Should the idle speed be slow or fast when the electromatic is working. I have spent several hours studying the 32 page book and 28 devoted to the op and repair/adjustment of this device. It is complicated. I would like to hear from anyone who has worked on and fixed this device or is using it in their cars. My wife and I have had quite a few experiences learning to drive this Packard. thanks in advance for any replies.

There should be no change in idle speed. That there is is a sign that there is a vacuum leak when the system is trying to operate. I think that you will find that the diaphragm in the power cylinder is breached or that there is a connection problem between the control valve and the power cylinder.

The idle speed should not change appreciably for more than maybe a second. When you say nothing happens, have you verified nothing is moving in the engine compt?

When you turn the switch on it provides power to a solenoid on the control valve. With the car sitting, the other switches will allow the solenoid to operate and pass that vacuum to the mechanical portion of the control valve. If the throttle is closed the mechanical valve will allow the vacuum to pull the diaphragm in the power cylinder to release the clutch. That operation should take not much longer than it takes to push the pedal with your foot. Visually, in the engine compt the cable will tighten and move part of the linkage but depending on configuration of another piece of linkage the pedal inside may or may not move.

Once the diaphragm has moved and clutch is fully released, there should be no more free air able to reach the engine. If the engine idle is faster all the time you have the EC turned on I would suspect a bad diaphragm or huge vacuum leak in the plumbing between the control valve and power cylinder.

If you do need a diaphragm, Steele Rubber has them as probably does Kanter,

A slight momentary change in idle speed is to be expected and normal for any vacuum-operated device such as power brakes, even windshield wipers, as any air in the device is moved into the intake and replaced by a vacuum. But if the idle speed change remains after the device is activated, then you have a vacuum leak.

Thanks guys but I have more information. The previous owner gave me cranking instructions. Upon starting, if the car did not idle well, he said to depress the "transmission " button, which is actually the electromatic clutch button. He referred to it as the high transmutation setting. He said let it idle for 5 minutes like this. There is a big difference when the button is pressed, so at the slow idle that must be the EC engaging and I have a bad vacuum leak at the Power Cylinder. Does that make sense? I have been driving with the high idle engaged which I think means the EC is turned off, right???? My mechanic said the car was idling at 650RPM.

I would imagine when the engine has the slower idle the transmission button or EC would be in the off position and not letting any vacuum pass the solenoid valve. When it is on, if vacuum is leaking from the diaphragm I would also think you could hear a hissing sound from somewhere around the hole where the rod and cable exit at the rear of the power cylinder. There is a short rubber hose at the front side of power cylinder connecting the elbow adapter to the metal tube. If that is not positioned and and clamped securely it could also be a source of leaks.

From inside the car there is no way to tell when the EC is on or off, no indicator lite.I am thinking in revese of your thinking. At slow idle the engine runs rough, maybe caused by a vac leak, so thats why I think the EC is engaged when it is slow idle. I will have to see when the solenoid is energized at what idle position. I also think the control valve could be stuck after so many years of no use

You are right about no indicator. If you can't see the ammeter flicker when the switch is on, about the only other way to tell if the EC is working is by the clutch pedal. On some cars it will fall and raise from the floor on its own as the EC takes over. On other cars with pedals that remain upright, if you push the pedal down and there is nothing but a weak spring pushing back you know EC is operative.

You can use a meter or a test light and see if the solenoid has voltage. Unfortunately the two terminals are behind the solenoid and not the easiest to reach. The wire from the switch could be on either terminal. If the ign switch and trans switch is on, one terminal will have 6v measured to ground.

The terminals are side by side and arrow points to one of them. If you remove the wires use caution. They are the same type bullet connectors as is used on the accelerator switch mounted on firewall. Sometimes the terminals grip the bullets very tightly and you can break them off the phenolic board they are mounted on if you pull the wire off without holding the terminal.

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HH56 you are right. Just went out with some help from my wife. When engaged the car idle speed increases. I could feel and hear the solenoid click when she pressed the transmission button. The cable from the power cylinder moves a tiny bit but not enough to pull the clutch pedal so i guess I need a new diaphram, right?

If the tube and hose on the front side is in position and clamps are tight then it sure sounds like it needs a diaphragm. Here is Steele's offering. Kanter lists it for $7 less.