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Wow Howard it never occurred to me to try cleaning the end of the cable! Great idea! I will give it a try when the weather cooperates. As for routing I'm starting to think the clothespins were to replace missing clamps. I have it running through the triangular mount on the side of the Trans and to the speedo hole. I don't care as long as it works. Doesn't seem to have any sharp bends this way.

10-13-16

I tried using some emery paper on the end of the speedometer cable. The transition area was shiny so I gave it a try. No improvement. I was crushed with disappointment. Out came the cable so I could send it back.

Started to. Go back in the house and kept thinking how unlikely it seemed for Packard to have changed the size of the end of the cable. The first cable that was sent to me was also rusty at the end but still fit.

Then I thought I'm already dirty. Might as well dig out my grinder with a wire wheel on it and see what happens. I polished the end as shiny as a newly minted quarter and crawled under the car again. With a half hearted effort I stuck the cable in the transmission and all of a sudden....it fit!

I was delighted! Put the cable back in. Doesn't seem to have any sharp bends with my routing. I won't know if it works until I drive the car.

Just about to take the car off the jack stands and I remembered I forgot to try to tighten the governor with the channel lock pliers! Back under the car I go. No success getting the pliers in a position to turn the governor so it is what it is.

Now to find time to test all of this work!

Good to hear. I didn't go back to read what or if something caused the cable problem or just why you replaced the cable.

At any rate, one other thing to check or take care of is at the speedo end. Check the receptacle or rotating piece on the end the square end of cable mates into. It has got to turn freely. Sometimes the lube dries up and seizes that piece to the bushing inside the threaded housing. If yours is in that condition the new cable will destroy itself. If that copper colored piece (on the speedo in photo) still rotates and you have never done it, place a drop or two of oil on the felt wick in the oil hole and also try to get a bit to enter between the housing and the rotating piece. If it doesn't rotate you need to take care of that before driving the car and testing the new cable.

Here is a photo showing the two places to check. Photo is not a 52 speedo but yours should be similar.

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Once again thanks! I did oil the wick but it didn't occur to me to check if it still rotates. I replaced the cable because the inner cable snapped near the speedometer and the outer shielding was damaged. I figured it was that damage that broke the cable. I will definitely check the speedometer before driving.

I'm amazed how that little bit of corrosion at the end of the cable kept it from sliding in the transmission.

Speedometers are over rated anyway....LOL

10-16-16

Today was test drive day. First I took the instrument cluster loose. The inner cylinder moved freely. Not free wheeling but turned with no effort. I put oil on it anyway and also on the wick again. Bundled it back up and went for a drive.

The speedometer was bouncy as I drove. I think overdrive was working. I didn't hear any notices to indicate it engaged but at 40mph the car was not as loud as before. I could only maintain that speed in the neighborhood I was in for 1/2 mile before I had to go slower.

Went about 4 miles total then reversed the route home. This time at the 40mph stretch the speedometer seemed more stable but I don't think the overdrive was working.

When I got home, I looked under the hood. The fuse was not blown but one of the wires on the relay had disconnected.

So I'm hoping the overdrive is actually working and I just need to tighten the wires. Maybe next trip I will be braver and find a faster road.

The OD should be ready to come in at approx 20 - 25 mph. On the R11 there is no indication -- you just sort of have to remember to let off the accelerator when you think it is at speed and if ready, it will make the shift. Engine speed or sound level will be the only indication it has engaged -- although you might get an idea if it freewheels when you let off the gas.

I was constantly taking my foot off the gas so it was hard to tell if it engaged. I will reconnect the wire and pay more attention. Also, I tried restarting after the drive and the engine turned over really slow like the battery was dying. I had to pump the gas pedal 6 times before trying to restart for the engine to finally come alive. This is after I cleaned the copper piece on the starter.

On the hub puller you bought, did it do the job well for both rear hubs? I know your driver's side hub wasn't much of an issue to get off.
John

Hi John,

I never took the other side off but I'm pretty confident the puller I got would do the job. If yours is really stuck you just need to take your time and hit the dog bone a few times, wait a while, try again until it literally pops. Keep the nut on but loosened so the hub doesn't fly off when it pops.