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I am in need of replacing the head gasket on my 54 Cavalier.

It leaks from the rear drivers side corner pop-pop-pop.

The head was off when the car was restored in the 1990's as I have pictures.

Last head job I did was on a model T ford in the 1970's.

I am seeking any suggestions such as how to remove the head in one piece, how to get old gasket materials off easy, What kind of sealer I should use etc.

Maybhe I should pay the guys at vintage auto repair here in Phoenix AZ,

I have a new head gasket in hand.

Suggestions are appreciated.

Jim

I've done more head gasket jobs than I care to remember,
here's my advice. Left-click to enlarge

packardclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=863

good article. didn't apply to me, but I wish it did. I tried just about everything in this article.

to my knowledge...the last time the head on my car was off was 1990 as well...I have video of it.

26 years of use, overheating, and God only knows what else meant that it would take me 5 hours and not so conventional methods to remove my head. which had to be warped way more then .010 as the machinist's edge showed daylight. I just about died trying to get my head off my 37 and I'm only 35 yo.

my advise is that if you encounter anything not described in this article....have someone else do it.

just my two cents.

Would using bolts instead of studs and nuts be a better plan when replacing the head? Many flat-head engines used bolts instead of studs successfully. Bolts would make head removal much easier. Just a thought...

(o[]o)

Good Morning Jim...When I don't choose to do the work myself..Vintage Auto Repair does good work. I have used them successfully. I have also used Advanced Automotive in Scottsdale just a successfully.480-451-9695 if you wish options. Alex Alfaro is the one, at Advanced, who specializes in the old machines. He knows 'Miss Prudence' pretty well. I would be happy to do an introduction in either shop. Ernie

If using bolts instead of studs were better Packard would have realized that during their 35+ yeas of using studs. Then threads that go into the block are different from the threads that the nuts go on as they are "water seal" threads needed to keep the water in the block from creeping up the threads. Bolts are not made with those threads and if there were bolts, after removing and replacing them numerous times over a cars life the threads would wear slightly and leak some water.

On the removal technique where it is recommended to put a wedge in between the two metal gasket layers. Often one or both metal layers are stuck to the head or block so by wedging in between them you have to "rip apart" the center compressible part of the gasket, no easy task. I have found that it's best to choose the upper or lower steel face and put a putty knife/ wide screwdriver etc to separate the head from the gasket, then it SHOULD!! come right off, if you're lucky it will almost float in the air HAH!.

When the nuts and washers are off, inspect each stud carefully to see if there is any rust/crud around the stud. This is from either leaking water or leaking combustion gasses. Soak each suspect stud with a good penetrant, let it sit, then put a nut on a few threads and sharply tap the nut sideways. This helps free the stud from the head. Then remove the studs and proceed as above following the article.

On some cars, especially with aluminum heads, I use a cam type stud puller after soaking and tapping the suspect ones as above. On a V 12 it took me a week to remove the heads.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but have you checked the torque of the head nuts? Because the question I would ask is why is it leaking?
But if you still need to remove the head and you have good compression. Remove all nuts leave the plugs in and crank the motor over a couple of times. I have found this will break the seal and then a putty knife can be inserted between the head and the block, while using an engine host to lift the head off.
Or am I all wet?
Wes

Quote:

Fred, thanks for your reply. My opinion is that studs are better than bolts, as the torquing force is pulling up on the studs where they screw into the block. Probably why Packard chose this method. However, studs make removing a head more difficult, sometimes it can get very involved.

You guys deal with all makes and years. How did other manufactures who used bolts instead of studs deal with the issues you have identified? Thanks.

(o[]o)

what about locking the nut in the stud. Then they come out as one. Torque the stud.

When a nut is on a stud, even after the thin 35-54 washer is removed, there is insufficient stud protruding from the primary nut to give the secondary nut enough threads to tighten them together. If you tighten them together the upper secondary nut will strip as too few threads will be engaged.