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I called a Packard owner yesterday to borrow his timing light and he didn't have one. He told me how to time it without one. He said take out spark plug #1 because Packard usually timed it with that plug. Turn the motor just enough to raise the piston all the way to the top, even put in a wire into the hole to see that it is at the top. Then look to see that the points are closing, tighten the distributor and replace the cap. He said it is good enough to drive until I can get it times properly. I'm interested in what you gentlemen have to say. I learn so much from you.

Not too sure how the wire thing would work out. The spark plug is over a valve, not the piston.

Assuming it runs well enough to drive, you can get a very correct ignition timing by using your ears. Put in the appropriate grade of gasoline for your compression ratio and find a modest incline where you can accelerate in direct drive (Ultramatic) or high gear (standard shift) with a reasonable amount of throttle. Open the passenger window and accelerate up the hill. If you hear a lot of preignition spark knock, retard the timing until you have just the slightest trace of knock. If you hear no spark knock, begin advancing the timing until you do. Optimum timing will be with just a very small hint of knock on hard acceleration.

As was mentioned, the plug opening is over a valve so you cannot feel the piston. Even with that method there is the possibility it would be 180 out and on the exhaust stroke rather than the compression stroke.

Unless the engine has been worked on or distributor removed since it was last running I doubt the timing will be very far off. After removing the cap, if the rotor appears to be pointing to the standard approx 7:00 position where distributors for most Packard straight 8s are typically set when #1 is at TDC, I would think your timing would already be very close to where it should be. That 7:00 is a general position however because if a previous removal and reinstallation of the oil pump was a tooth or two off the dist will be affected and rotor tip could be different. In that case, the plug wires would have been repositioned accordingly.

If it turns out you do need to retime, what you can use in place of a timing light is an inexpensive test light available at Harbor Freight. You could even build your own by using a 6v light bulb and some scraps of wire. Here is a procedure from a service training manual provided to mechanics for use back in the day before everyone had fancy test equipment. The engine shown is older than yours so doesn't look quite the same but the procedure remains.

Start with removing the #1 plug and place your finger over the hole while someone "bumps" the starter. When the piston is on the compression stroke you will feel the pressure of the air wanting to escape. Unless a valve is stuck open, having compression and the air escaping would eliminate the possibility of the the piston being in the 180 out exhaust phase. Follow the procedure to set the pointer at the recommended 6 degree BTDC (before top dead center) mark on your engine damper. You can then hook up the test light as described and by moving the distributor a small amount get a fairly accurate initial setting.

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'Back in the day' we would static time reciprocating helicopter engines by slipping a piece to cellophane paper between the magneto points and slowly rotate the engine toward TDC. When the paper became somewhat loose we would check if the timing marks were aligned. These were 'un-excited' magnetos with impulse couplings, so the test light technique would not work (no voltage unless the magneto was spinning). The same 'super thin feeler gauge' technique was used on various rigging points of the controls. Since there was no stigma attached to smoking back then the supply of cellophane paper was somewhat unlimited. The only limitation is that it will only work well if the points are smooth. Pits are OK, but the 'mountain peaks' had to go. If a test light is not available this alternate method is likely to work just fine. Detonation will let you know if the dynamic (static + centrifugal) advance has gone a step too far. Labored cranking is another symptom of excessive static advance. One of those two conditions will ultimately limit the amount of advance you can set the timing to.
dp