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Very nicely executed, congratulations!

Very nice finish to the car. I like the metal door sills as an alternative for the horribly expensive repro rubber sills and could see them being a factory item on a military vehicle.

Am curious about your color choice as it seems very appropriate. Believe US used Army drab green during that time with the addition of gray or blue for other branches with their later military vehicles. Did the UK use the brown color on their staff cars or is that just your preference.

Hello, thank for the kind words, yes the olive Drab colour is a mix that I use on my restorations of WW2 vehicles. most of the vehicles I restore are US military vehicles and the colour came from a US Vehicle, and instead of a flat matt its a slight sheen. My website Rustybits.co.uk will show you some of the other vehicles I have restored. Thanks Howard.

Hi can any body help please, the packard has had the radiator recored the engine was flushed very well, but the car was used and it is getting very very hot, any body got any suggestions as to the cause of the problem. Thanks

Far from inclusive, not in any particular order, and assuming the new radiator core was at least a match for the original, you might start with these:

-Retarded ignition timing
-Failure of spark advance mechanisms
-Excessively lean fuel mixture (vacuum leak?)
-Slipping or incorrect size fan belt
-Clogged water distribution tube
-Dragging brakes
-Failing water pump
-Collapsing lower radiator hose
-Stuck thermostat
-Restricted exhaust (undersize pipe, wrong type muffler?)

Hello Howard:

I don't know about the 1941 Clippers, but a friend had a 1941 120 sedan that kept over heating. Turns out it was missing some inner fender/under body panels that helped to force the air through the radiator. Once he found the panels and installed them the car never over heated again.

Hope this helps.

--Roger--

Thanks for those answers. Well I have renewed the radiator and if anything it should be more effective. Yes the exhaust has been renewed for a stainless like for like. It ha a new water pump. I will have to check the timing. All radiator hoses are new. would removing the thermostat make it run cooler. Thank Howard

Quote:
Only if it is stuck closed or otherwise defective. If it has a really high opening temp such as being an optional 190 degree thermostat used for special climates then the engine would get fairly warm before it opens but as soon as it does open the temp should stabilize around that area.

If it is the original bellows type thermostat and you are running a high pressure cap then those have a problem opening when the pressure gets over 7# or so but they eventually do open. If it is a modern capsule type thermostat those can fit in the housing either way. Make sure it is mounted so the sensing pellet is down and towards the head.

Have you used a mirror or some other means to visually look in the cap opening to see if coolant is circulating. If you see no action in the radiator tank then look to the thermostat or some other blockage. If the coolant is flowing then look to one of the other causes.

Hello. well i have just goit around to looking more into the overheating problem. I have removed the waterpump and stuck a boroscope up the heater tube and it looked very clean and the holes all seemed to be clear. I did think about trying to pull it out or is it best left not sure how easy it would remove. Thanks Howard