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Good afternoon gentlemen in the forum. I need your help and suggestions regarding window switches, what wire goes to what. I recently had the master door switch restored by Alan Kress in PA, got it back and then sent him the LR-RR-RF switches to be rebuild as well; came back beautifully restored, cleaned polished, etc. Good to go. After turning the battery power off to do the switch installation of the LR-RR-RF switches I used the notes I made to myself months ago when the last door panel came off to begin re-upholstery. After attaching the green, red and yellow wires to the switches using this map attached, I turned the battery power back on and the hydro-electric pump started turning. At this point I began to question if I made a correct map of green-to-Motor; red-to-Battery and yellow-to-cylinder. If the map is correct then I have another issue instead of the three restored switches. Any ideas out there?? Thanks to all.

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If it has stock wire colors here is the 54 information. Battery is red and goes to the center switch terminal BAT, the command to the pump is green and goes to the end terminal labeled MOT on the switch and the other wire is yellow with tracers and goes on terminal CYL for each individual cylinder. Don't forget the seat switch if you have the 2 way hydraulic seat.

For those with a convertible verify the wiring on the top switch if you have more than two wires attached. The early looms used the switch as a tie point rather than having certain splices and had 4 wires going to the switch -- two battery and two for the pump command. If it has an early loom and those wires are mixed up with a battery wire connected to the pump terminal the pump will run as soon as battery is connected.

If the wiring looks OK check the switches for binding to make sure they are all resting in the center off position and not cocked in the bezel. The springs are not very strong and clearance inside the switch between contact and no contact is minimal. Excess friction could be an issue and keeping one energized.

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Thanks for the wiring tip. I made a slight color adjustment so that all three switches are attached to their wiring posts. Windows working fine. However one new problem made itself evident: the right-rear door has a leaking hose somewhere inside the door (photos). How it could be leaking after several years is a mystery, but the door panel has to come off for further investigation. I found on Amazon an amazing array of door panel tools.

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Glad you got the windows working. As to the leak, hopefully it is just a loose fitting but if it is an old original hose those tend to dry and get brittle.

If you have new tight -- or even rusted -- clips one thing I can suggest is a wide and thin but strong metal prying tool. I am not sure how well the modern plastic door pry tools will work with the tension or rust on some of the wire spring clips. I use a mini flat pry bar about 8 inches long which has a slot on the tapered end that can straddle the clip.

If you need a new hose pay attention to the size of the fittings. I believe the original hoses were a smaller outer diameter than the typical modern hydraulic hose and have a special thin crimp to attach the fitting to the hose. Assuming it is stock and properly regulated, the pump has a pressure output spec of just under 300 psi. Hydro-E-Lectric offers replacement hoses but IIRC, some have had problems trying to fit their modern rubber replacement hoses with normal size fittings thru the old rubber conduit that protects the hose and wiring between the door and body. If Hydro or another supplier has an option for a modern thin nylon or teflon pressure rated hose it might work better when feeding thru the conduit.

David, you are fortunate that the oil leak did not spoil you brand new door panel. JWL