Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

I remember the clock in automobiles built in the 47 50's era and as a rule they didn't work. However as a future project I would like to see if I could have the one in my 47 Clipper repaired. Does anyone have any suggestions? I don't know where to start looking.

I believe the two biggest problems with car clocks are dirt and oxidized or burned contacts. The clocks are nothing more than a wind up clock and the old lube dries or gets sticky stopping the action.

There are spray solvents which will clean the mechanism but if you use them be sure not to flood the clock so the stuff runs all over and gets on the painted face or under pressure damages the hairspring on the balance wheel. After cleaning use a tiny amount of clock oil applied with a fine pointed applicator such as a toothpick just on the pivot points for the gear shafts. There are some who have been successful short term with WD40 but that is not a good long term solution because it sprays over everything and as it ages it gets sticky again and collects dust. There are some sprays used for cleaning electrical mechanisms that contain lubricants but I don't know if they are suitable for this use. Clock oil is the standard. It is a thin almost water like fluid which doesn't get sticky and retains lube properties for a lengthy period.

The winding mechanism is an electromagnet which attracts a spring loaded moving arm. The arm rotates several degrees tightening the spring which then pulls the arm back to power the clock. Near the end of the unwind travel there is a set of contacts that close to supply power to the electromagnet to pull the arm back and start the cycle over. This happens every few seconds but the length between the cycles varies between clocks. The usual issue is the contacts need to snap open to break the connection to minimize arcing but as the lube starts making things sticky the action slows down and may not have enough inertia to snap the contacts open so they stay closed longer and can burn. A weak battery also can't pull the movable arm fast enough so the same result. Time can also take a toll with oxidation on the contacts so not enough power to the electromagnet for a proper winding. Use a point file or contact burnisher to clean the contacts.

Do a search for borg warner clock repair-there is an article that gives details on how to repair it. Generally like HH describes it is cleaning the contacts/and light oil to the gears/bearings. I was able to get mine(47 Super Clipper running. I also found the fuse blown-. Also for some reason which I do not completely understand I am getting intermitten voltage from the head light switch. The clock itself is very durable

I got mine to run with only a cleaning of the points. I had however given my clock to an older clock nut and he cleaned it for me back in 2009 when the car went back on the road. At first I did have a weak battery and the clock gave trouble. With the Optima, battery trouble is a thing of the past. I still have some trouble with the clock, (Points) Maybe it is the rewind arm causing a delay burning the points? I should mention that I wont leave the battery connected if the car will not be driven for some time. Maybe that causes a problem?

Thanks for the replies. The motor for the car is currently out for a rebuild. When I get it back and everything is hooked up so I have current for the clock I will see if I can get it to run. I can remember when I was a child my father had cars with clocks of this kind, but they never seemed to run. I can remember them ticking, and the click of the switch that closed to rewind them.

I used David Lindquist atmagicdave.com/autoclock/home.htm
for my repair on 1949 model 2365. They did a great job and did not overcharge

You may want to see my post in the Pre War Section in the Smiths Classic Clocks thread. JWL

I went on a tour with a friend of mine and his wife and his 1947 clipper. He had his clock converted to a quartz clock. Each day he would disconnect the battery at the end of the day and when we came back in the morning my job was to set the clock. I set the clock by just pushing in a button a motor would rotate the hands around to the correct time. So this is a real big help if you disconnect your battery when you get finished using the car which I think most of us do. And of course the quartz clock is extremely accurate. From what I've read the changing voltages from the 6 volt electrical system is one of the reasons the clocks of that era on all cars were not accurate.

Would you ask your friend if he remembers who did the conversion or if he has any info on the quartz movement. His is apparently different than the one that was used on the 56 I had converted because that one still uses the adjust knob.