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Why does the gas pedal need to be used to start the clipper? And can I bypass this feature somehow?
Im sorry this is my first packard I dont know much about it

The accelerator pedal starting was something different that several other mfgs also used back in the day. Not sure when or who was first but Packard started using it in 41 with the Clipper and carried thru on all until 54 when they went to the key start. Buick was another who used it even longer than Packard -- thru 59 I believe. There were any number of different starting methods other mfgs implemented. The push button was the most common but a couple of other interesting starting methods were pushing the clutch pedal to the floor or having the trans in neutral and pulling the gearshift lever back. All in trying to do something a bit different than the other guy.

The actual switch is an oval or squarish black plastic assy mounted on the carburetor which will have two wires connected to it. You can remove the two wires and extend them inside to connect to an ordinary universal starter pushbutton. Many have mounted the button under the dash edge to avoid making a hole in the dash. You can also leave the original wires connected to the carb switch and run two more wires inside to the pushbutton. Leaving the original wires connected at the carb switch so the switches are in parallel will let either one start the car. It is also possible to add a regular key start but that gets more involved because the ign switch would not look original in the dash without a lot of work plus there would need to be a bit more revision to the wiring.

You didn't mention the year of your Clipper but if you are not very familiar with it there are owners manuals for most years, some sales literature on many years and also most factory shop and service literature you can freely download to get up to speed.

Wow thanks for the great info!
The previous owner disconected the leads from the carberator and installed a manual push button under the hood. If i was to install the leads back onto the carb like the original way, would that method be safe? So basically just press down on the gas pedal and turn the key to start the car?
I have a 1953 packard clipper delux
Thanks again for your help!

G'day Jarrett,
to PackardInfo.

I invite you to include your '53 Clipper Deluxe in the Packard Owner's Registry.

Yes, that would be safe. Back to stock form really. Generally I turn the key,(turning the Ignition on.) Then step on the pedal on my 51.

Jarrett, the key is just an on/off switch.....When starting press the gas pedal once or twice, this will close the choke and squirt gas into the intake manifold, then turn the key on and depress the gas pedal, the starter will start turning and hopefully ( if everything is working properly) the car will
start. It takes a little while to get the right technique but the more you use the car the starting refinements will become obvious. Hope this helps. Also, welcome to the forum we're here to help. Make use of all the printed material that will help you take care of your Packard.

Steve

Ok great got it! The previous owner for some reason felt the original way was unsafe and disconected the leads on the carb, im going to reinstall them and hopefully it works!
Thanks for everyone's help this is my first packard so I'm green!

One of the downsides to the accelerator switch arrangement is it squirts gas into the carb every time it is pushed. The electrical and tuning needs to be in top notch shape on a 6v ignition system because there is not much forgiveness for voltage drop or a weak spark. If the car is hard to start or it starts and immediately stops due to ign or other problems and needs repeated tries, by the time you push the accelerator for starting a few times the engine could flood. That was one of the reasons people in the day added an extra pushbutton. The PB could be used when the engine was warm or needed one or more tries without adding any more gas. Must say that I had not heard of one staying in the engine compt though and it must be very inconvenient to get out and open the hood to start the engine. Perhaps it was there for service or another reason??

Assuming flooding or hard starts was not the reason for the added PB, a couple of other things to be aware of that might have prompted the change. Assuming there is nothing electrically wrong with the starter switch to have caused it to be disconnected, there are adjustments that could be problematic if those have been messed up.

Shims control the point where the switch should engage. Wear or if the switch was disassembled and not reassembled properly the switch could be coming in at the wrong time -- maybe way early before the choke is released to close or even way late so the accelerator really has to be pushed hard to make contact. There is also a ball operated by vacuum which makes the mechanical connection to the switch. The ball lifts and disconnects the switch so it cannot be activated when the engine is running. If that assy was put together improperly or the vacuum passage is dirty and ball cannot lift to break the mechanical connection the starter could engage when nearing full throttle and engine running.

Here is a bit on the switch and adjustments taken from an old Motors Manual.

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Ok guys everything you said worked like a charm......ive had the car running before now its not starting up, it's turning over ...i purchased a new 6 volt battery it seems like its week but maybe a bad starter solonoid?? Or its a carb issue. It usually starts when i spray starter fluid into the carb

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So Howard it sounds like with the conditioner my car is in a should deffinetly go with a push button....any recommendations where ?
Also I've read that converting to 12v system is better? What's your guys opinion on that?