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Does anyone have photos/videos/other documentation on the fittings/connections/distribution for the front of the master cylinder?

Until a real photo showing the completed assy with tubing comes along here is a bit from the parts and service manuals. The brass block that connects the tubing and switch has inverted flare ports for the tubing and a 1/8 NPT thread port for the brake light switch. The large hollow bolt holding the brass block to the master has a different diameter copper washer on either side of the brass block

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A poor quality photo out of another manual. Shows the tube routing from the brass block with the brake light switch in the middle.

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Is something connected to item 1.0100 in the 1st image? I haven't been able to get a good look at it yet. The master cylinder is going to have to be replaced. I have a new one. I hope to take item 1.0100 out and separate the manifold with the tubes and switch still attached.

1.0100 is a special hollow bolt that fastens the brass block to the master and provides a passage for the fluid. The end that threads into the master is open and fluid comes out a couple of holes that will be positioned inside the center of the brass block. The copper washers provide the seal on either side of the block. Assuming you have the proper new master with the correct outlet hole and thread, the bolt should be able to be unscrewed and threaded into the new unit without difficulty or much disassembly. Try not to move the brass block too much so the tubing doesn't get stressed or loosened and you do need to be careful no dirt or debris gets in between the pieces which will affect the seal. The brakes will need to be bled before driving the car.

As to the construction of the bolt, on your 51 the brake switch is in the brass block and hex at the end of the bolt used to tighten everything into the threaded hole in the master is solid. On bolts used on some other models the hex end is open and threaded so the brake light switch can connect there.

Unknown if your new master came with any copper washers -- some do, most don't. It is a good idea to have new copper washers rather than try to reuse the older ones. Sometimes the older ones will seal if used again and other times the small grooves on the brass block will leave enough of a deformity in the washer surface that they will not seal properly. You can get new ones from Kanter for a nominal charge or sometimes but not always a local Napa or other parts store might have the correct sizes in stock. Hopefully they will because if they do not and need to order them from a distant warehouse the freight can be considerable. If that is needed getting them from Kanter is probably the better option.

Here is a photo of the bolt and some Napa local purchase washers that will work. They are just a tiny bit larger than the originals. It took a visit to several of my local Napa stores before finding the washers as none of the stores had both. The Napa computer doesn't seem to track stock between stores accurately because of the way the washers are sold. If you do try and buy local be prepared to visit the stores and maybe take the old washers so they can match them just in case the washers were mixed up as had happened at one of the stores I visited.

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Hi, Does this help any?
Wes

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Let me know if you need me to
Crawl under my car and take some pics for you!

It appears that my car has 2 tubes and a switch connected to the manifold AND another tube connected to the end of item 1.0100. I haven't traced it to the other end but its going across under the engine. I have 1 brake line going to the fitting on the rear end where it splits for the rear brakes. Could I have 2 brake switches or 2 separate lines, one for each front brake?

If I need to modify this I'd like to go back to original.

Most likely the line coming off the bolt going under the engine is the line to the right front wheel. Some models have a single tube off the brass block going to another junction block bolted to the frame with the split to the front wheels happening there. Yours apparently has the tube to the right wheel coming from a port on the bolt and no front junction block.

That arrangement is going to prevent you from leaving as much of the assy intact as you wished to do originally but not too much more work to disconnect the tube. The nut can be very snug so I would suggest you try and use the proper flare nut wrenches to remove and tighten the nut so the corners don't get rounded off.

The rear wheels are fed by a single tube clamped to the left frame rail to a point just in front of the rear axle. A hose connects from the end of the tube down to a brass block bolted to the top of the axle where the split to each rear wheel is made.

The nut on the tube from the bolt will turn. Someone already rounded off the more-easily accessible nut on the manifold. I haven't tried the other nut. I'm planning to buy a set of small vise grips, including a 4" long, long-nosed vise grip. This would be for the rounded nut. I imagine I'll go ahead and take the whole assembly apart now.

How much fluid fits into the whole system? I've poured in about 1 pint.