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Good to know and I was basing my comment on the parts exchange on this site. These numbers are listed as needing an adapter. Anyway, I picked up a pair of Centric brand cylinders at another store but got some kits from Napa just in case. I actually discovered that I had some new kits is stock but they had become brittle so obviously won't be using those

I didn't work as long today as I have been since going into town and back takes half the day. However, I did get the left front cylinder and hose installed but had lots of trouble with the hose. The clip that holds it to the bracket at the frame had the removal tab aimed aimed to the back of the car where it was impossible to remove due to the inner fender's notch for it having so little clearance so I ended up having to bend down the bracket, then force something under the side of the clip to bend it off. Fortunately I have spares but even so the hose connection doesn't feel quite right so I'll check it again tomorrow but eventually the fender is coming off anyway so I'll replace the line then with stainless..

At least this side already has the springs in the proper location but it appeared at some point that water had gotten into the drum. The varnish was intact on the shoes on the other side but this side had light surface rust, and a rust stain on the friction surface of the drum itself where a puddle had sat. A mystery since it's been stored indoors for nearly four decades and no leaky roofs! Also, the friction surface had odd marks on it.

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Still out at the shop for today's work and just got the two rear brake cylinders installed along with a new hose from the frame to the axle. The old hose wasn't even particularly tight at either end!

On the left side, the first thing I noticed after taking off the drum was that the star adjuster was all the way in to the point of being tight, requiring a vice grip to get it apart. When I got the right drum off, I saw the same thing. I suspect that when I last worked on it over forty years ago I did not disconnect the parking brake cable but with it off this time, I counted about 32 clicks before the drum got snug which is probably about right. I've not yet put the right drum back on but I expect it will be about the same.

As for the right side, it was very dirty everywhere inside so I suspect the wheel seal needs to be replaced. If my shop were not so rural or if I lived here full time I would go get a replacement or order one but instead I'll just make a note of it to check later.

There was absolutely no sign of any fluid at any hose or fitting either. As long as the car has been parked, that's not much of a surprise.

I have everything to rebuild the Treadlevac and master but not sure if I will have the time this trip as I need to get back to the brakes in my 1985 Plymouth Voyager Magic Camper although they are nearly done too.

I hope to remove and check the gas tank while here (or possibly somehow check it without removing) this time and wanted to have a new replacement waiting when I got here but then heard the news that the reproductions are no longer available. Too bad because I had planned on buying two! I talked with a manufacturer to make a couple in stainless which they can do (they have the original blueprints) but without the filler spout and I don't want to go that route.

As for the photo below, of course I had to dig out my drum puller which wasn't too much a struggle using it on the left side. The right side, however, was very tight and took considerable force to get it off and that's with a 50lb sledge hammer!

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Got a late start today but was over at the shop until after 8:40 PM with disassembling the parts car's Bendix Treadlevac for rebuilding. I was surprised to find some liquid brake fluid in it even if it was on the wrong side of the seal! On the other side was wet gunk that looked like tar.

Things started to get messy as I allowed myself only a small corner of the bench that I generally use for parts sorting to do this work so tomorrow I need to put all the small pieces onto a safe place before they get lost. I hadn't worked on one of these since I rebuilt the one on my 1953 Patrician but it started in better condition than this one. I have it all apart except for the shaft which does not seem to want to budge in spite removing the clip.

The master isn't really as bad as it looks in these photos so we'll see how it cleans up but I am planning on replacing it anyway. Also, the booster parts aren't as bad as they look either.

Ross' excellent how-to document was very handy in refreshing my memory.

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Other than a quick walk over to grab some prewash detergent I needed to get my greasy clothes washed, yesterday I never made it to the shop for any work. Being so rural, a trip into town for some tools and brake fluid took most of the day after the laundry was done.

Today was spent in bleeding the new front brakes in my Plymouth Voyager Magic Camper, then setting up my 12v solar charging system to maintain batteries when I'm not here, especially in the very cold winter. The system uses a 100 watt panel on the roof and already was connected but I expanded on it with a second controller that can handle two dissimilar batteries when before I had to connect them in parallel and they needed to be the same, or at least very similar. The system also provides some lighting in case I need to go out there in the dark and it can keep my devices charged. Eventually I'll add a way to also charge 6v batteries.

Here is a photo of the panel but it will eventually be replaced by a full off-grid 120/240v solar power system.

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I'm rather stuck at my shop for at least another hour as a major thunderstorm is passing overhead bringing a major downpour of rain and it's about a city block to walk back to the house. I had to close all the doors and windows so it's quite warm in here now.

Anyway, I was about to post to ask what the green color is on the Treadlevac's top reservoir cover but now that I'm cleaning it up, I can see for myself. The cover is copper so the green is oxidation but it sure looked like paint! The other parts, especially the reservoir, are cleaning up nicely but I didn't expect that the reservoir would at all because it looked very corroded when I started. It was apparently undercoating on it and that actually preserved it. Inside is another story but it should clean up too although I have a replacement.

I had another surprise a little while ago when I went to drain the gas tank and discovered that the gas in it still smells like gasoline. Of course, I'm not going to use it but that's still nice to know. At one point when I used to drive the car I sealed the tank so I wasn't sure what to expect.

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You mentioned getting the new BTV master casting. Does it have the relief port and if not, what did the vendor say about omitting it?

Howard, I posted the answer I received here but it really didn't answer the question, However, the new casting does not have the vent even though it is really easy to add it and I'll likely do so. The casting has a place for it so it needs only to be drilled.

No idea what the bleeder valve he talks about might be. Obviously Packard never used it if it was Cadillac only but the port is just a hole present on both versions Packard used so keep us advised on how and where you place it if you modify the casting.

Yes, I know and had asked for clarification but haven't yet received it. Nevertheless, the casting is well done and the hole easy to drill.

I managed to drain five gallons of gasoline but that's all my can holds and no sign of the flow tapering down. If the tank was full, that might be why the gasoline is in good condition as that's what owners of small airplanes do to keep moisture from accumulating. (My father is a private pilot of a 1949 Navion so I grew up in planes.) Not sure what to do with what I've drained so far and tomorrow I'll figure out something but if it still burns (I'll test a bit to see) my father has a tractor that can use it.