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Hello all, Depression and Desperation have set in as I contemplate an engine out, strip camshaft out to replace number 3 exhaust valve lifter on Noel's 41- 160 coupe. The engine was partially overhauled, with valves and seats ground. However the valve lash was not checked( not my doing) and there was no clearance on the number 3 exhaust valve from initial start up ( now has about 30 hours on engine) It was relatively easy to get to from under the guard so I decided to try to grind .030 from the valve stem in situ. This worked fairly well and I raised the valve and depressed the lifter spring to introduce a cutting disk into the gap, taking extreme care not to touch the top of the hydraulic lifter. The end was not as flat as I would have liked but it looked ok and ran on all cylinders for once. However, after about 30 minutes the valve became noisy and I believe that I have holed the top of the lifter. I am aware that I must remove the camshaft to replace the lifter however, has anyone any experience with successfully replacing the lash insert in situ and yes, i realise that they are matched components. I am going to remove the head and manifold to put a new valve in but would like to avoid the entire engine out, strip routine. Any comments other than having a go at me for not removing the valve to grind the end squarely would be appreciated. I am also very keen to purchase a set of used 356 lifters so that I have a selection of lash inserts to find one which can pass the leakdown requirements using the existing barrel. Any help would be much appreciated. Best regards, Peter Toet.

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You do not have to remove the camshaft to replace a lifter (the hydraulic assembly) unless you're also going to also replace the cam follower into which the lifter nests. Remove the head and the valve, swap out the hydraulic assembly (lifter), check and set the valve stem clearance and finish the reassembly.

My sympathy. Nice to see the PII too!
I have a large supply of tested, checked and certified good
used lifters from Bob Aller (via JimH) at your disposal.
I'll see what I have for valves, I think I have some.

Also have full gasket sets..

DAF

Hello Dave, Thanks so much for that good news, I did not read the shop manual properly, in particular, the Valve lifter Sectioned illustration. I was psyching myself into a major tasking unnecessarily I dug up some of the lifters I have from a 53 Patrician and it is such a relief to find that I don't have to do an engine out task. I have chatted with the Flackmaster and organised a replacement lifter and valve. Thanks again for your advice and I shall sleep better tonight. Noel will also not have to put up with my bad language for as long. Best Regards, Peter Toet.

Peter and Noel,

Congratulations, all the hard work has paid off and the Coupe is looking real good.

"Noel will also not have to put up with my bad language for as long"

A few "magic words" just helps to ease tensions!

Hello all, I have the parts, (NOS exhaust valve and a checked hydraulic lifter dashpot unit) from Flackmaster. I have hit a snag. The old damaged dashpot will not release from the tappet sleeve. I have used CONSIDERABLE FORCE in trying to twist/pry whatever, the old dashpot from the sleeve. I have a few grip marks on the old lifter to remove already but am getting extremely frustrated trying to remove the old dashpot. does anyone have any nonexplosive experience in removing a defunct dashpot. Here is a pic of the replacement dashpot. Thanks, Peter Toet

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What has happened is that the lifter (or "dashpot") has attempted to open a stuck valve sometime in the past. The hydraulic pressure within has swollen it. I have gotten them out by removing the the plunger and then using vicegrips (locking pliers) to crush the body of the lifter. Just make sure you are crushing the the lifter, not the tappet body. You can usually get the plunger to come out by driving it upward with a narrow chisel. After a little cleaning you can drop in your new lifter assembly and continue as if nothing violent ever happened.

Thanks Ross, I was afraid that something such as that has occurred. I have tried using a thin blade and a narrow chisel as a wedge to no avail. I shall therefore persist in "carefully" attempting to rotate the dashpot inside the lifter to wind it out. My main concern as you mentioned is not to crush the lifter body whilst holding it.
Regards, Peter T

Had exactly the same problem. The mechanic attempted to twist the stuck hydraulic lifter out of the seat. The result was not nice to see. The top half of the follower broke into pieces. This required pulling the cam to replace the broken follower. Ross' idea of crushing the hydraulic lifter makes good sense.

Here a basic picture of what I think your talking about. With the Plunger removed, I wondering if you could pour some Liquid Nitrogen into the Plunger Cylinder and it would shrink it enough to pull it out. Now you're probably thinking where can I get Liquid Nitrogen? Any chemical supplier should have it, now if they will sell it to you is another question. I went down to ours and took a glass lined thermos and since their only requirement was it had to have a relief vent. I just kept the spout opened. Also some good heavy duty gloves wouldn't hurt.
Just a suggestion!
Wes

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