Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

On the 1946 Packard and even the 1951 Packard are items such as the air cleaner, heater box etc... Painted satin black or gloss black. Seems I remember seeing mentioned that Packard used gloss black?
Thanks John

To be truly authentic put on the thinnest possible coat of the cheapest possible black paint with no primer beneath. All of those small parts were dipped originally. So, no high gloss, just go for the cheap black paint look.

Thanks Ross John

For whatever it's worth (and such documents always generate their share of controversy), the PI Engine Room Details and Judging Guide indicates most underhood black engine room components are semi-gloss black, but it does indicate gloss black for the air filters.

PS - after seeing Leeedy's comment below, I should add that the PI Judging Guide does indicate, as an exception, semi gloss for the V8 senior car air filters.

Quote:

I have seen so many restorations where notably the air cleaners (particularly post war ones) are done in brilliant gloss black. With brilliant shining finishes. But the originals just were not glossy, glassy black. They were what best might be termed semi-gloss in very cheap black enamel, and yes, no primer coating or perfect metal underneath.

I've used satin black rustoleum before. But I see they also make one they call a semi-gloss black. Maybe I'll try that, should have a hair more gloss than the satin.

It's the old story too, John - you will fuss and fiddle with painting everything to 'original perfection' and once it has been back in the car and driven for a thousand miles, no-one would ever know or notice how close you got it, as with a little dust and a dash of road dirt, they are all 'rendered into solution' to look the same anyway!!! I had masking tape and newspaper all over the shop, with horns and air cleaners hanging from wires, and tried to get everything perfect; now I look under the hood, and if I'd been half as fussy, it would still look better than half as good! Chris

Boy you know how to pop a balloon, Chris..... LOL

Another one of "those" issues. "Looks can be deceiving" Today's paint is different than what you got in '46-51, so whom are we kidding that it's restored with original paint?
The paint chemistry changes over the decades, so what's appropriate for one is not necessarily the same in a later.
These type "supplier/OEM" parts are usually painted to some spec from a bulk buy paint. Some are not painted. Some paint chips list the under hood and some do not. As far as I can tell in my limited searching, Packard only listed exterior, didn't list all finishes. (We went through this for faux wood. PAC/Stude archives might have documents but certainly "rosters" do not know.) Why good low miles unmolested originals are used as benchmarks.

Today's rattle cans are fast dry and come in standard hues. Even these are changing to water based.
Automotive mixed paint has 6 finishes, from flat to gloss. All that varies is the amount of "flattener" they mix in. w/ Gloss = 0 flattener, flat = max. I find the mid gloss #3 aka "semi" closely matches GM underhood. For ease, I shoot acrylic enamel for these.
I keep rustoleum semigloss black rattle can on the shelf for touchup/small parts. I prefer "appliance" epoxy for unprimed direct to metal coats. This only comes in gloss (rattle cans) so I only use on certain things like cast where the surface won't be extra glossy or making an unseen mounting bracket, etc. You can actually shoot paints in such a way as to reduce gloss, "haze/dry coat", also. Oppositely, you apply a wet coat (with levelers) to bring up an as-sprayed gloss. Epoxy lasts longer/harder and I don't have a gun to clean or 9/10 qt of paint left over.
Early pre-war would have been nitrocellulose lacquer and then straight lacquer. Lacquer requires a high solvent content, so is inherently dull from flash off until "rubbed" out, same applies for some other finishes, so what appears to be gloss maybe rubbed and/or waxed to gloss, not as applied. Gloss requires a flat surface. Certainly not unreasonable to wax or rub out a big air cleaner in days past. I know I've done it. The cleaners in wax help a tired old paint finish too. Keeps that dirt off and easier to wash/wipe, too!
"Alkyd" is probably post war period what we refer to as "straight" enamel. You can still get, but it takes long to dry w/o an oven, and today most add accelerator or hardener to it. This is what is still used on restoring tractors, etc. Low VOC inherently. Hardener is isocyanate and needs personal protection. Fairly good direct to metal and not many faults in application.


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