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Here's one type check valve that Summit & others offer. I got this to use with a rotary pump but haven't installed yet

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That certainly looks like the one I have. I don't remember exactly what we used, but I can look it up if you would like.

Tom

The restriction fitting - is that easy to find? Do they come in different sizes/restrictions...

Is this it: Quick Fuel Carburetor Idle Feed Restrictors

I used brake line for my fuel line, but your photo looks like soft copper.

Anything that reduces area through which the fuel can flow will work, like a reducing T. And yes, the lines are copper, but that is not an important part of the set up. Steel or SS would work and, in the opinion of most, be better.

Tom

Really, the only problem with copper fuel lines, other than appearance, is that if they are subject to constant vibration or motion they will "work-harden" and develop a propensity for splitting or fracture.

So, I like to revisit old wounds. Here's a 'fuel pump bypass kit' sold by Now and Then:

http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/1128979

So I'm getting ready to run a return line back to my fuel tank, and I'm going to rebuild my fuel pump according to BigKev's tutorial. Do you think it's worth the effort to keep the 6v electric fuel pump in the picture, or will a properly operating original fuel pump solve all of my vapor lock issues?

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Think it depends on how much you are going to drive. I find if mine sits a while, gas evaporates & it has to crank over a long time before enough gas is pumped to fill carb. I just turn on the electric pump a few seconds, until gas present & it starts, then turn off. Also like the idea of a backup just in case. Guess that's called wearing a belt and suspenders

Howard, our carburetors like most of that era, have vents to the outside air and most gasoline is now 10% ethanol. It naturally evaporates and if mine sits longer than two weeks, the bowl is empty. I installed an electic pulse-type pump on the Carribean to prime it and then I could shut it off. My understanding that only a pulse-type pump can be operated this way. I am going to install the same pump on the 400. Once primed the 400 will start at the flick of the key - no need to touch the accelerator.
I enjoy watching folks at the cruise when I just hit the key and it starts immediately and then pushing a button, I silently roll away with just the parking lights on.

Randy, I probably have the same pulse pump and do just as you do.

Wish I had checked the Then & Now site because I bought the pieces for the bypass individually locally as well as the rotary Carter pump shown in the complete bypass kit on their website from Summit. Never thought anyone would have a kit. Have plans to change the pump when I find some more "round tu its". Anyway, do think the electric backup is a good idea--if for no other reason than what we use it for.

Randy I am curious to what make and mode of 12v pump you used as I want to install and electric pump for priming purposes, but still use the mechanical for normal operation.