Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Folks,
I replaced a very distorted thermostatic spring with a "universal" one from Hagen. I twisted it around (counterclockwise) to bend it in place so that the valve was barely closed when cold with the spring just contacting the post. Upon heating up, the valve opens a little but not nearly enough. While the engine was warm, I used my heat gun from ~6" away and the spring relaxed and the valve fully opened. Seems like the spring is too strong or not enough heat is getting to the spring for it to work properly.

Is there some other way to 'prep' the universal spring to work? Or would a $35 spring from Max (part # 440753) work without having to play around with it???

thanks
-Bob



(unrelated, but I want to replace the Brake vacuum check valve at the carb (part 440822). Max has them for $40 but haven't found another, cheaper source. Have you?)

Springs that change their tension with heat are usually specifically designed for a certain application. I suppose the "universal" nature of your aftermarket spring means that for some cars it will work and other cars it will not work. A Packard replacement part or aftermarket Packard replacement will be in your own best interest since a non-op or partial opening spring can cause engine power issues. Hope this helps.

Bob.

Back in the day I wired the valve open.

Now. I cut the valve out. Then plugged up the holes.

I do notice a difference in time for the engine to warm up and run smoothly when I wire the valve closed and then open it once the carb choke plate fully opens. So I'd like to get this back to original.

I bought a new spring from Max for $35. It is quite a bit different than the 'generic' one I bought for less than half the price. Question for those that have played with these before: The 'tang' in the center ofthe spring is very long compared to the shallow slit in the heat riser shaft. I hate to butcher something I just spent $35 on, but it looks like I need to snip this tang down so it will go into the slot? I'm debating cutting the shaft all the way through to make this easier, but wondering if others have had a go at this and have some advice.

thanks

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Bummer! One step forward two steps back. Before modifying the spring call MM to verify you have the correct spring for your application. I've not run into this issue so be sure to ask MM what they recommend. But...keep checking this forum perhaps others have an work around and the next post may have the solution. Good luck.

The slit goes all the way through your shaft. It still has a piece of the old spring stuck in it. Wedge the slit open a hair with a small screwdriver and pick the other piece out.

Thanks Ross. If that is the case, then the one I have on my car must not be the original. The slit was most definitely not all the way through. But it is now. I took a hacksaw and cut through it to split it.

A new one from Max has only a partial slit, but more interestingly, doesn't have the same spring they sent me (less turns, but maybe it is an old pic).

parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000022e~Z5Z5Z53691~P150.00~~~~S5MS0PH96J73624005551e~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000022E#



I'm going to try mine and see if this works.

thanks

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Still futzing with this $&#* spring. When the engine is running it bounces between partially open and closed making the engine erratic, of course.

The spring is from Max, wondering if it is not getting enough heat transfer from the shaft of the valve. I have the radiator out now as I work on the cleaning up the front clip to soon reunite with the rest. SO I can't try out any options but clearance to this valve will never be better so want to get your opinions to take my best shot at it. I all can think of is to better crimp the shaft around the spring tang to get more heat transfer, but wondering if anyone else has had challenges getting these to work? Seems like it should be easy, assuming I got the right spring from Max.

Any suggestions?

thx