Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Hello all i have a quick question. My gauge cluster is done (John Wolfe restored) but they want the sender unit to rebuild and calibrate the gauge.

Do you have to drop the tank to get the sender off and out???????

If you do have to drop the tank is there a drain plug on the bottom of the tank????

Thanks Pat

Unless a previous owner has cut a hole in the trunk floor to access the sender you will need to drop the tank to remove it.

Most tanks do have a drain plug and unless it was changed to brass by a previous owner or possibly removed not too many years ago, there is every probability that the original steel plug has rusted to the threaded port attached to the tank. Be very careful when removing the plug.

The tapered body of the tank side fitting has a lip which is kind of pressed or crimped into a hole in the sheetmetal. In removing the plug the rust will cause issues and the tank fitting can twist loose. I would use some penetrating oil and let it soak the plug threads for a day or so before trying to remove it. Be sure and hold the tank side fitting with some kind of wrench or pliers when trying to remove the plug. If the fitting twists loose from the sheetmetal you will have a very hard to repair leak.

Pat, if you do have a plug in the bottom of your tank and it is rusted in like Howard suggests, try Free-All to loosen it up. Best 'rust-buster' I've ever seen! Also, a great time to have a real good look at your tank when you have the sender off, as it is a fair-sized hole the sender-plate opens up and sure gives good visual access to the tanks innards, as well as physical access if it needs cleaning. Make sure you seal the sender gasket up with a gasoline compatible sealant when you put it back together, so it doesn't leak and stink up the car.
Chris.

Thanks all for the advice, after laying on the cold floor last night i finally got the plug free with no damge, a lot of PB blaster and some gentle but persuasive coaxing. The collar or bung as i call it thats pressed i guess into the tank is copper and the plug was steel ill post a pic.

One question i have is the rear cross frame brace looks like it has a lip bent down, is it supposed to be like that???? This is the lip the tank straps are hooked to (nut side)

One last thing whats your guys opinion on the straps??? Should i clean them up and reuse them???

Attach file:

---

  (198.22 KB)


  (191.33 KB)

I cut those rusted bolts and tossed the straps. Kanter sells generic tank replacement straps and I think the rubber i put under them came from Steele Rubber. New extra long t-top bolts, stainless, fine thread, I think, came from McMasterCarr, but I can look it up. They cost more, but I had difficulty with the original ones on the rear connections and didn't want to go through that again.

Attach file:

---

  (265.30 KB)

It looks like the lip ypur bolt goes through on the cross member is tilted down is that true???

Well i got the tank down WOW that was a chore. Here is a picture of the sender pretty basic and...... a cork float!!!! the pick up tube is loose and wobles a bit and its pretty pinched by the retainer. But i am pretty excited about the tank i tried to take a pic of the interior, its all rust free!!!!

The one pic shows some slight damage, kind of a crease but it never leaked there when i get the tank checked and clean, im wondering if i should tell them to leave it alone???

Ill get the sender sent to Wolf for restoration and calibration to the gauge

Attach file:

---

  (179.01 KB)


  (265.42 KB)


  (83.68 KB)

Yes, where the bolts attach is bent slightly, a couple of degrees from where it starts out on the frame.

Maybe over wrenching on my part.

Attach file:

---

  (203.89 KB)