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Engine pulled out and will not turn over by hand to separate the transmission.
What do I need to do to separate so I can get the motor on a stand to rebuild it?



Thanks for any help
James

Longest option timewise might be to fill the cylinders with penetrating fluid or a mixture of ATF and acetone. Let that sit for a few days to see if the pistons might free up. If that doesn't work then try draining the fluids and turn the engine on its side to access the oil pan. Disconnect the rods from the crank and see if enough pistons are free you can slide them up the bore to get some rods out of the way and have enough clearance for the crank to turn by itself. A final option which would remove some weight but not solve the original problem is to remove the bolts connecting the trans bellhousing to the engine. With the torque converter still bolted to the flex plate, pull the trans off the converter and engine. It would need to come off straight so as not do any extra damage to the converter pump shaft and bushing but there have been several removed that way. Once the extra weight and length of the trans is off then it is easier to work around the engine to determine the next step in freeing what is stuck so you can get the converter off.

Howard,

Thank you for the information as soon as the weather gets warmer I will try these things and see what happens.

One other thing is it might be valves that are stuck and the engine cannot turn because the cam is not able to move the lifters. I had that happen on a long sitting engine which finally broke free by bending two or three pushrods. You might remove the rocker covers and take the shaft and levers off or at least loosen them so you can get the pushrods out and then try to turn the engine.

Copy that...
My plan is to rebuild the engine so I guess start at the top and work my way down. Was just wanting to do it on the stand but I will do what I have to do.

That's what I was about to suggest. Take off the heads, then see what's actually stuck. If pistons, you can then remove them from below if you're not worrying about breaking any rings and by the sound of it, that is not an issue. I just recently went through the same thing on a 1965 Imperial engine which had stuck wrist pins that made things even more difficult but persistence, a pry bar and big hammer paid off.

G'day James(1956 clipper custom),
to PackardInfo and good luck with your engine.

And I invite you to include your '56 Clipper Custom in the Packard Owner's Registry.

James,
for including your '56 Custom Clipper Hardtop Coupe in the Packard Owner's Registry.

I had the same situation. I left the torque converter attached to the flywheel and removed the transmission. I had the heads off when I removed the engine and transmission so it was easy to set the block down oil pan up. I removed the crankshaft with the flywheel and torque converter attached and then was able to take them off.