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Bump - anyone had luck replacing the front motor mount rubber with the front clip on?

Also, the car only took 14 qts of water to fill a completely drained radiator and block. Book says 20!!! No idea why the large difference. It seems unlikely that the heater could hold 1.5 gallons. No significant change in water level after 40 miles of driving.

Ken, I've not done it myself but I'm quite sure you can service the front motor mount without removing the front clip or the radiator. On your coolant refill, I suspect the block was not completely empty.

Owen, thanks. I spent quite a bit of time trying to blow out the block from the thermostat housing (with thermostat removed) and the drain port on the back of the block. Short of standing the car on end, anything else I could do with the engine in the car?

Not too much work done, as I had a busy weekend, but I did get a front hood clip installed. I had an old one from my previous car (115C) sitting around, and after a few days sitting in Evaporust and some new bolts from the hardware store, I'm in business.

I will eventually need to source the correct slotted screws - the hardware store only had phillips head, and now I need to adjust the hood. It closes properly, but is too low compared to the grill. Perhaps that's why the previous owner left the front hood retainer off?

Well, it's embarrassing how much time passes in between updates to this blog, but I guess that's life. I've been busy with work - since my last update I spent three months away from my garage for work, and got my intake manifold without stripped bolt holes back from porcelain coating. I took the car out around Christmas, and noticed the odometer was not longer working, so I sent the speedometer out for service. I think I could have done it myself, but given the delicacy of what is involved, I decided to just pay a pro. The speedometer is back, and beautiful, and now I'm doing a few other projects.

Asked recently about removing oxidation, link here:packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=22772&forum=4 I tried the recommended polish and 0000 brass wool (what I had), and neither cut the oxidation much. I've got some clear coat drying on the portion of the wood grainining that is under trim, if it behaves, I'll spray the rest of the panel and see how it looks - pictures will follow.

I also pulled the tail light lenses off. I'm replacing the burnt out dash bulbs with LEDs, and thought I would do the same with the tail and brake lights. I'll post the part numbers and source once I verify I'm happy with them.

Anyone have a source for the gasket that goes between the tail light lenses and the chrome ring? I looked at the Steele catalog and didn't see anything. Mine are definitely thrashed, so I'll need to replace.

Also, I understand (from "The Production Packard", Kuehl 2012) that the trim rings on the tail lights are chromed brass. One of mine is pretty rusty on the little tab where the screw goes. Is the tab for the retaining screw made of steel and riveted to the brass ring, or do I have some sort of aftermarket nonsense? Anyone (DAF?) got a set of beautiful NOS trim rings? Lenses are fine. I plan on polishing the rings, but the rust on the screw tab makes me nervous. I'll mask the chrome and mist some paint to preserve what I have if it's original.

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Next novice question: in my quarantine induced polishing, I pulled the steering wheel off. The Bakelite (?) has always been a bit sticky, but is crack free. Should I clean it off (with what?) and clear coat it, or is the there something else that would continue to preserve it without feeling sticky and grimy?

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Well, I made quite a bit of progress on the steering wheel. After doing some google research, and finding this link -forums.aaca.org/topic/249583-packard-banjo-wheel-restoration/ - I learned that my steering wheel outer ring is actually hard rubber. I cleaned it off with a mixture of baking soda and water, which worked great! Once it was all clean, I dried everything off, hit it with a tack cloth, masked the metal, and sprayed a few coats of clear. There is one small run I need to address, and then I'll buff the clear coat a little bit and try to clean up the chrome as well before re-installation.

Separate topic - bump on the tail light questions? Clear evidence of gasket leakage - there was quite a bit of rust in the passenger side tail light housing.

Edit: steering wheel is much improved . Not concours ready, but much improved.

Also, I looked again at the Steele catalog and found my tail light gasket. Must've scrolled past the first time.

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Ken, you might consider painting the inside of the tail light housing white to reflect more light. This helps a lot with conventional bulbs. LEDs tend to be more directional and the white paint may not work as well. Still, can't hurt.

Great job on the steering wheel! Also for the taillight, be sure to use a red LED bulb as white is too bright and will not look red even through the lens.

Thanks JW and PackardDon for the thoughts. I already have the bulbs en route, unfortunately, so I'll check them out before I order red.