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HH56 wrote:
I will start by posting a factory photo with a partial view of what Don is asking about. A good photo and approximate length of the bare unconnected lines would answer many questions on exactly how Packard rerouted the filter lines. Biggest question is did the supply line go in front of or behind the thermostat housing and where does it bend to clear or turn upward to get to the filter port.

Most engines have the filter on the left with a short supply line that runs straight back and up but when the factory AC compressor is mounted the oil filter moves from the side of the left head on the engine to the right side of engine and is positioned forward and lower than the original location. It bolts onto the end of the compressor bracket. The question is the shape and where the new longer oil supply line is routed from the oil supply port on the front of the left head to get to the new input fitting location on the rear side of the filter canister. The return line also is different and looks to be just a short curved piece that goes into a 90 degree fitting on top of the block but if you have photos of that one as well it would help answer future questions.

CarFreak wrote:
Just a small update.

Not too much happened in the past couple months. Needed to fix the multiple leaks in the family's old Dodge Charger and that took a lot longer than I anticipated, but it usually does. I finally got that done and took it for a small cruise around town before I started to tear into the Patrician again. I got the dash board and dash wiring and associated engine bay wiring out of the car. In the process I removed the toe plate with the TreadleVac and the column as well. The TreadleVac was sent to Ross Miller to get rebuilt for the Caribbean and the one on the Caribbean will be rebuild and used on the Patrician. We had two spare 56 senior dash boards in the Packard Shed and I took those two and the Patrician dash out to Pittsburgh with me to build one with the best parts.

The main goal is to get the car pretty much stripped of components while leaving it a roller to get all the dirty sanding and metal work done before the cold weather hits. That way I can start the paint and paint prep over winter and spring of next year to hopefully get it running before next year is out. During this time the engine and trans will be rebuilt. While that is being done at the parent's house Ill be trying to get the trans work done in Pittsburgh, dash painted as well as interior trim painted. I also hope to get the seats to an upholstery shop before the end of the year to get some holes in the moleskin patched up.

Leeedy wrote:


You will want to be very, very, very careful about mixing dashes on this factory A/C car. HVAC controls are different. Graphic indicators will be different. Cable lengths and routing are different. Electrical harness is different. Ducting is different. Glove box inners are different. AND there are other differences. Best to leave a factory A/C dash alone unless you are very familiar with the car and the system... and most people aren't.

And disconnecting A/C lines at the firewall may seem very straightforward, but most Packard V-8 factory A/C disasters start right here with someone disconnecting lines without using two fitting wrenches (instead of one). Usually the evaporator core is thus damaged and this usually doesn't show up until one goes to pressurize the system. Then the nightmare begins since the dash and evaporator core need to be pulled to do any repairs. All of which could be avoided by knowing ahead of time and using the right tools and techniques. And the workshop manual does not tell you this!

Someone in the past has apparently done a lot of parts swapping in this Patrician. The more you swap parts, the more you invite problems and unintended disasters. I seriously doubt the manual transmission is original-especially on a loaded A/C car. And you'll be sorry if you don't put the steering back to power steering... unless the driver is a bodybuilder.

b.wilson wrote:
Hi Carfreak

Watching your progress with interest. I have a 56 Clipper Deluxe with shabby paintwork which needs tidying up. Couple of thoughts:

1 If you get your hands on a good 352, and go with that, it might be a good solution. That's obviously what my Clipper has but it was fitted by a previous owner with an Edelbrock 4-barrel carby and twin exhaust system (which I guess you already have). Mine is auto and gets along very nicely with that setup. I don't know whether the compression was raised - doubt it. Important to check that the original oil pump has been converted in either case. Then you lose the vacuum wipers, but not too hard to rig up electric ones.

2 That's good advice about refitting the power steering if you can. My Clipper is right hand drive, so came without it because it could not be fitted as an option. As a result, I'm developing an impressive physique! You'll want to fit radial tyres of some sort to your car, especially if you sort the suspension bushes and Torsion Level out. Radials will make the steering even heavier at low speeds. But it will drive like a dream.They really do drive like the one in the video at the Proving Grounds when everything is working correctly.

Good luck with the project. You have a great starting point. Lots of fiddly things to do. By the time you're done, you'll be the expert!

And when your dad looks down on you, he'll be smiling.

Brian

I do have the original style compressor but from the research here no one has been able to find replacement parts for that. Also, the byplass valve (I believe that's what it is called) is more than difficult to source.

Leeedy wrote:


Thank you Leeedy for that information!! that is incredibly helpful about the dash boards! I guess I should elaborate on what I wanted to do with the dashes:

The dash board had a Mopar radio fitted to it and a speaker that was mounted by screwing through the gold faced trim. So I don't know if the dash was cut to get this radio to fit (on the list to find out), but at least the gold faced trim needs to be replaced due to the holes created to mount the aftermarket speaker. Luckily one of the other dashboards was an A/C dash if I need to use that frame. I only have the one wiring harness and that was removed from this Patrician. The parts I was thinking of swapping was stuff like gauge bezels, switches etc. Essentially finding the trim pieces that look the best cleaned up and installing onto the dash that goes into the car.


On that topic, is there a polish that can be used on the gold faced trim? I got the turtle wax polish you get at the parts stores and that works great on chrome and stainless, but not so much on that gold faced trim.


Thanks for the warning about the evaporator. I already got the lines removed from the firewall and it appears someone used thread locker on those connections... So it was a pain to remove those lines even without the engine in!! I have no idea how you would be able to do it with the engine in there. But I was interested in doing what HH56 did with one of his A/C cars and retro fit a newer style evaporator, compressor and condenser in. I do have the original style compressor but from the research here no one has been able to find replacement parts for that. Also, the byplass valve (I believe that's what it is called) is more than difficult to source.

My dad removed the power steering and installed that 3 speed. I would like to install the power steering once the car gets on the road, the hoses and power steering pump was still mounted in the car when it rolled into the garage and I believe the power components that were removed are sitting up in our Packard shed. To my understanding the car was running and driving after the 3 speed was swapped in. I don't have information on if the overdrive worked, but the wiring is there, and the transmission will be gone through.