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The rectangle device with ridges is the setscrew. Not sure what that type head is called but I have seen them on other fan blades and blower wheels. The closest modern equivalents are heads called an external square or external hex. Instead of the slot for a screwdriver or a hex shaped hole for an allen wrench as found in a typical setscrew, those type heads need a tool more like a nutdriver or socket except the opening at the end of the shaft is shaped like and the same size as the rectangle.

Advantage to that type setscrew is you can torque them much tighter without damaging the slot or hex opening on the setscrew than you can with those needing a screwdriver or allen wrench. I was able to remove mine with needle nose pliers but there is not much room under the blades to enable getting a good grip on the head. With your heater box flat in the car and you being unable to stand it on edge to get a good view and angle to the screw it may be difficult to use pliers.

HH-does it turn like a normal set screw?

Yes. It will probably be fairly tight. Something I have found on various motors is often the end of the screw seriously bites into the shaft. Rust on the shaft and the damage from the screw can make pulling the blade and hub off a bit difficult. If yours is bad you may need to use a fan hub puller to slide the hub over the damaged area. The commercial pullers I see on amazon are way too big so you may need to come up with something using the same principle but smaller. Be careful not to force something in that would bend the blades or there could be a balance and vibration problem when you put things back together.

If you unscrew the nuts under the car and disconnect the 2 wires, you can lift the motor and fan out as a unit, then soak and unscrew the set screw. Patience key.

If anyone who has a dual stream heater wants a reproduced label for it, just PM me.

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I got the motor out-I have used some kroil on the fan set screw and will try and get the fan off tomorrow. I notice there are 2 smaller nuts on the screws holding the motor in the case. I assume they hold the motor together-where does the motor split-has anyone tried to disassemble the motor. mine is locked up tight like something broke inside-magnet/brush? It could be the bearings with no lub for 70+ yrs. I notice kanter has the comoplete unit in there catalog-I will try and call then to see if that is fact.

thks to all

David

Got the fan off-and was able to open motor up-electro magnet field coils-modern fan mtrs use permanent magnet for field. The problem seems to be the motor got hot and something has closed up the air gap. Will try and clean it-Kanter says they sell the complete underseat heater=will see

If you cannot fix the old motor and the cost of the new underseat heater unit is way up there a universal replacement motor sold by some of the Ford vendors for their applications might work if the housing dimensions are similar. It is a permanent magnet motor so to change direction all it needs is reversing the wires. I played around with one on some of my 47 AC experiments and it works quite well.cgfordparts.com/ufolder/fordpart.php?number=21A-18527

I spent $125 to have mine rebuilt, so yeah, in my book that Ford motor is a deal if the dimensions work.

That motor looks like it might work-I was able to get mine to work-cleaned up the air gap and was able to get it back together. It currently is working but Iwill keep this in mine.

thanks
David

mounted the fan and fired it up-somewhat surprised it is blowing air toward the floor-is that correct? I marked the wires for polarity-I guess it does not matter as long as it blowing air past the hot coils