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Again, try dry Tucson Packard as I'm sure Mike has some from one of his many parts cars. I've been there and they have a really nice selection, in addition to being great people, especially Mike's dad whose business it is.

As if you didn't have enough to do, I was thinking this might help so you don't forget anything. Thanks to Dave Czirr for putting this together.
Wes

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Steve - good thought, I hadn't even considered that. I may have to give that a shot if I can't work with what I have.

Don - They are indeed very helpful. They are my backup option, since I know they have a hardtop to take from (the car my new header came from). I want to see what some guys around me think that have done this before. I think some of the flat areas will be very straightforward to fix, but the mount areas are what I'm worried about.

Wes - That is some excellent information. Much of that I hadn't even considered. I was already planning on dropping the pans (engine and trans) and thoroughly cleaning them, as well as change all other fluids and redo all the brakes. But some of the other stuff didn't even cross my mind. I'll hopefully get to the point of going through the whole list.



It's amazing how much sand gets everywhere when sandblasting. I vacuumed out much of the car and it is literally in every seam and crack. It will take some time for fully clean it. But the inside looks much better and the mouse smell is now finally almost completely gone.

The sandblasting removed much of the seam sealer that was around some of the panels...like the spare tire well in the trunk, the junction between floor and side, etc. What is a good product I can use to replace it?

-Kevin

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I'm an idiot. I didn't think to cover the carburetor with something before blasting. I didn't think it would be affected by it. But I just popped the hood and the entire engine bay is covered in sand, and for sure some found its way inside the carb. Now I guess I have to take it off and disassemble it. I was really hoping not to have to do that.

-Kevin

Unfortunately, it may have gotten into the engine too through the carburetor as there is nothing to stop it unless the choke was fully closed. You'll have to remove it very carefully to keep it closed, then check down inside the manifold. You really should really also remove the manifolds (as a unit, not individually) and thoroughly blow them out too.

Also, you'll need to protect the bare steel or it will immediately start rusting even if you can't see it at first. Por-15 has a protectant that will help so put it on sooner than later.

Are you sure it would drop straight into the manifold? I looked down into it (choke was open unfortunately) and it hits a floor well above the connection to the manifold. I'm very unfamiliar with the insides of these things.

I vacuumed everything I could out of the inside, but at the very least I'll plan on removing the carb, disassembling it, cleaning, and put it all back together. It probably should be done anyways.

-Kevin

Yes, it will. There is no "floor" in these carburetors so what your seeing are the air valves at the lower portion that are similar in appearance to the choke (except that there is one for each barrel) and they do not close off 100%. You really must remove the manifolds now unless you want to ruin the engine,

Yep, I see what you're talking about. They are indeed the throttle valves. Crap. I didn't need this.

-Kevin

Years ago I used 3M seam sealer. It came in a quart can and was brushable. I used it on the interior seams and when it dried was paintable. Excellent results.

You could also get some advice from local body/collision repair shop.

Something to consider for those who have never done this before...
The blasting media gets EVERYWHERE.
Steering column, window regulators, headlight switches, trunk hinges, ad nausium.
The good news is it is not a flood car :)
Can't wait to see her finished.