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Looks good!

Was hoping to get the last of the metal work done yesterday, but my friend was unable to make it over. So I struggled through whatever I could get done. I'm not very good at welding so it took forever and doesn't look pretty.

I pretty much wrapped up the floor panels, then turned my attention to the driver's side header. I fit the corner brace/sunshade mount, and welded it into place. I supplemented with some extra metal to replace sections that were cut out during removal of the rot. I went a little overboard to give as much strength as possible. My welds aren't pretty so I'm glad they'll be covered up.

I have a few things to patch on the passenger side and then I can get that brace welded in. That should hopefully wrap up the metal work and then I prep for paint.

Also test fit the inside windshield trim to make sure it fits. I'll need to do some adjusting on the driver's side A-pillar where some welding was done in order for it to fit perfectly.

-Kevin

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There's light at the end of the tunnel!!

I finished up the passenger side of the replacement windshield header and got the corner brace/sunshade mount welded in. I strengthened everything as much as I could. It should all be very solid going forward. I could never have done this without the help of two good friends and a generous neighbor.

The whole header is in, repaired, and basically ready for paint. I have a couple of spots I need to touch up before then.

Now a paint question. I'm planning on doing epoxy primer on the entire interior and roof, then topcoating with a generic black or gray. Doesn't really matter what color it is because it won't be seen. I just want to cover the primer and seal it in. My question is, how should I prep the metal now? It was all sandblasted, but that was months ago. The metal visually looks good, except for a couple of spots where some moisture got on it. Do I need to wire wheel everything again, or should I just do the spots that I can see fresh rust? Then clean everything with acetone and shoot primer?

-Kevin

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Project: Grille emblem restoration

In between working on the welding, I tackled a project that I've been itching to try. The original grille emblem that came on the car (actually in a pile of junk in the trunk) was in pretty rough shape. It was scratched, has some internal cracks in the plastic, and at some point in the past had a really bad paint job consisting of red and gold spray paint.

I stripped the paint off first. I tried paint thinner first, but found lacquer thinner was much better, though probably not the best for the plastic. For whatever reason, I didn't get a picture of the emblem after I stripped it. But I was able to remove all the spray paint without issue. The leftover original gold/silver was another matter....nothing got that off except for physically scraping it. I was not able to get it all.

I tried several different golds, and settled on a product from Golden High Flow Acrylics. They make acrylics that can be shot through an airbrush. I went with the "Iridescent Gold": https://www.dickblick.com/items/01650-9011/

It took many layers to build it up enough be mostly opaque.

Next I tried several different reds and settled on "Stop Light Red Metallic" from Testors: https://www.amazon.com/Stop-Light-Enamel-Paint-Testors/dp/B00NQCJT4M. I thinned it with a bit of lacquer thinner and shot it through an airbrush. Only took a couple of layers.

For the helmet I initially tried Testors "Silver Metallic" but it turned out way too dull. I removed it with lacquer thinner and then tried Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome (airbrush ready): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015H4G2U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. This stuff was great. Shot perfectly out of the airbrush and built up in 3 layers. Much more shine.

The outside of the plastic badge needed some serious polishing. A friend loaned me his polishing wheel which made this job much easier. I settled on a pass or two of Tripoli to get the major scratches off. Then followed up with a green "high gloss" compound on the wheel. Lastly I applied Meguiar's "Clear Plastic Polish": https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Plastic-Polish/dp/B0000AXMD2/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=meguiars+plastic+polish&qid=1601770835&sr=8-2. I applied that with a microfiber towel and buffed it with the same towel after. It left a very nice gloss finish.

Overall it was a fun project. The result isn't perfect. I'd probably give it a solid "B" grade. But now that I've done it I should be able to do better on the next one (which is going to the be emblem on the trunk). For a few dollars and some time I think the result is passable. Certainly better than what I started with.

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Very nice Kevin! I've enjoyed your blog posts immensely, keep up the good work.

Thanks Paul! Slowly but surely.

Primer, paint, and seam sealer are on order. As soon as they get here I'm going to prime the entire interior (anything that was sandblasted) with 2-3 coats of epoxy, then paint the trunk. Don't know if I need to top coat over the primer where it will be completely covered up? Both roof and floor will be completely covered in Noico sound deadener + bubble foil insulation. What do you all think?

One other thing....school me on heat risers. I have a vague idea of what they do. I ask because I noticed the spring thing was disconnected when I had the access panel off to work on the valves. I didn't think much of it because I was so focused on the valve problem. I looked back at it today and spring is just sitting there, the riser valve doesn't appear to be wired open or shut, and I can move the lever in both directions freely.

What problems can a closed heat riser cause?

-Kevin

Here's something from "1945 Service Counselors". The only thing I have heard is if it is stuck closed, it may result in over heating of the carb.
Wes

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Oh ho ho.... go back several pages in my blog, and read all about improper heat riser function! Can cause rich running, burnt valves, carbon buildup, etc. Max Merritt sells the spring if you want to make it right, or just wire it open and rely on the better gas...

Edit: link here:packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... .php?post_id=213376#forumpost213376

Great work on the emblem, Kevin. It will be so satisfying to see it on the car when you're done.

Another great source for this kind of project is the nail polish counter at Walgreens. You can get just the right color and it's lacquer. I see you did your nails with Testor.