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JW - thanks, and yes it was a ton of questions at once. I figure they are all kind of interrelated, so might as well ask all at once. I'll pull the ceramic element and see how it goes. I'd like to replace with an easy-to-source paper filter if possible.

Ken - What's the best way to access those bolts? I've been looking at them and I can't fit any of my tools onto them because the distributor is in the way. I was assuming that the main part of the distributor could be removed, then I would have clear access to those bolts. I guess not.

Thanks for the link to the tune-up page. I have it and have used it for the things I've done so far (plug gaps, timing, etc). I also have a Motor's manual for my year, which has helped some. Lots of info to dig through though.

My neighbor has a vacuum gauge, just wasn't sure where to put it. I do have a line going to the wipers, so I guess that's where I'll put the tee. Probably need to get the distributor set firmly before screwing with the vacuum though.

-Kevin

You need a box wrench or sometimes an open end wrench to remove the distributor. It don't recall it ever being difficult to remove.

For the vacuum gauge, if you have an old car, this is the type of tool that you should buy to always have handy for when adjustments are needed again. The one I have from Amazon is in its own case and can also check fuel pressure and has a vacuum pump that is great for performing different types of tests on the vacuum system for the Packards I own and for my '60s cars. It was not expensive and well worth it.

There are special offset box wrenches specifically for those distributor bolts but though convenient, I've never encountered the situation where they were essential. Need a picture of one?

Just a thought, have you read the Training Service Manual on the carburetor?packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/49_CarburetorTrainingBook.pdf
A lot of good information to think about before getting in to deep.
Wes

Just a thought, have you read the Training Service Manual on the carburetor?packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/49_CarburetorTrainingBook.pdf
A lot of good information to think about before getting in too deep.
Wes

Got a few things done on my day off today. First I was able to pull the distributor off without too much difficulty. Someone had been in there before and had used two different bolts, one of which wouldn't go in far enough to actually hold the distributor in place.

The distributor itself was dirty, just like the rest of the engine bay. While it was off I took the opportunity to clean it up and repaint the black, which had mostly disappeared. The wire from the distributor to the coil was really bad so I made a new one. The terminal it connects to on the distributor was very loose, so I tightened that up also. The condenser, points, and rotor looked new (newer than everything else) so I left them alone.

Reinstalled the distributor with two new bolts and lock washers, put it all back together and started it up. Started easier than before, didn't have to give it any gas. I let the engine run for a while and took it up and down the driveway once. Still no flow through the upper radiator hose. I noticed the fuel bowl started full, then went down to a gradual drip, drip, drip. Is that a plugged filter or a weak fuel pump? Haven't changed the filter yet.

Car smokes like crazy and I come away from it smelling like I've been running a weed wacker for hours. Also noticed smoke coming from around the exhaust manifold. See the video to see what I've talking about with the smoke and fuel bowl. I can also see vapors coming from the vent tube on the valve side. Am I looking at blow-by or is this all a function of having MMO and Seafoam in the fuel? Possible exhaust leak on the manifolds as well?

Video: https://youtu.be/K-Yo9wb0-TI

Also mixed up some fiberglass body filler and filled in a couple of pinholes on the inner roof and some of the deeper pits.

Cleaned up the headliner bows, then scrubbed really good with Ospho and scotch pad, washed clean, then 2 coats of primer. Might hit them with a coat of paint once the primer cures for good measure. These things were covered in rust when I took the old headliner down.

-Kevin

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Check the parts list but I believe the shoulder bolt for the distributor hold-down is correct.

The shoulder bolt with the spring washer is correct. The idea was that the mechanic only needed to loosen one bolt to adjust the timing.

Huh. That makes sense having the shoulder bolt then. Would that be on the front or the back? Mine was on the back. Neither bolt was keeping the fuel compensator plate from moving, even though the bolts felt tight. No movement now with new ones, though I'll probably have to loosen both to adjust timing.

I don't think I'll reuse the old bolts, as the shoulder bolt is somewhat rounded on the edges, and someone cut a slot in it to use a flat screwdriver.

**EDIT - Dave let me know that the slot for a screwdriver is also original. So if anyone else pulls their distributor, you should have this type of bolt.

-Kevin

Following up on what I said earlier regarding smoking from the exhaust. I've been thinking about it today and took a closer look at my fuel pump.

First of all, I notice that nothing is connected to the vacuum ports on top (didn't realize it was a vacuum chamber until I did a lot of reading today). Second, there is a marked amount of oil leakage. Initially I thought it was just from the gasket at the block, but now that I look closer it looks like it might also be from the diaphragm area of the fuel pump. See pics.

I pulled the dipstick and checked the oil. It is slightly lower than it was before, which would make sense if some is leaking into the fuel. It's slightly dirty, which is no surprise given how black the old oil was. It *might* smell like fuel, but I can't be sure. It doesn't smell like the fresh leftover oil in the container.

I'm thinking I have a failing fuel pump and that I'm leaking oil into the fuel, and fuel into the oil. I will pull the fuel pump and send to Kanter for exchange, and I won't start the car again until I get a rebuilt unit installed. I will also drain the oil and refill with fresh oil before I start the car again.

Am I totally off base here or is my thinking correct?

-Kevin

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