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Les Schwab started in the town very near my Oregon shop and that is where I typically go for tire mounting as they are fast and reasonably priced but they do typically over-inflate unless I tell them exactly that pressure to use. I understand, though, that they were just purchased by a foreign company so I'm not sure what to expect the next time I'm there.

Still no Kickdown function

The OD cable held, but I need to do a better test not using the OD.

Still dying at idle, but. the carb was not all wet after it died like yesterday.

Here's a video from this morning of the car warming up, taking a perfect test drive, and then failing by dying at the stoplight coming home.

It's long and boring because nothing happens until the end. I could throttle her.

mktx.com/packard/StartTestDrive.mp4

Are there any serious consequences to disconnecting the distributor wire that runs to the OD relay and kills ignition.

I'm wondering if it is killing the ignition when I slow down and stop for a stoplight.

I guess I could try a test drive with no overdrive and with the wire disconnected.

I blew up a muffler, splitting it down the seam from one end to the other, when this circuit failed. You can disconnect it briefly for diagnostic purposes but don't enable the overdrive whatever you do.

Thanks for the warning, Don.
I blew up two mufflers like that, not getting the clutch in while in 2nd over and slowing down.

I left the circuit connected and drove without OD. Did two 3-mile test drives just now, plenty of stops. The 2nd time I turned on my headlights and both heaters. No problems whatsoever.

So now I think there's a problem with the OD relay cutting the ignition when I slow to a stop even out of gear while in OD.

I might see if Flackmaster has one. I think they may be a little rare. Otherwise when I'm up in Baltimore, I could go to Ross Miller. I'll call him tomorrow about his schedule. So around town, I'd just not use OD and save it for the freeway.

Is it an R9 unit? I'm not too familiar with them but on my R11 units, as I recall the circuit that kills the ignition is in the solenoid so maybe check there first before ordering a relay.

Of course I can supply a relay for testing or purchase. Just lemme know what you need Joe....we're here for you.
Paging Howard...

OVERDRIVE - I tested the overdrive without the wire that cuts off the ignition and there was was not difference. Engine wants to die and dies and then is difficult to start again. I installed the used OD Relay the flackmaster sent to me and it works. I did a test-drive video.
mktx.com/packard/12312001ODRelayTestdrive.MOV

GAS FILTER -The replacement fuel filters from Chevys of the '40s in Vancouver WA arrived and so I installed a new one. See the video of gas bubbling in the IDLE TEST below.

CARBURETOR autochoke- I had the auto choke set at 0 where the /\ is top center, according to the manual. I tried changing the automatic choke to a leaner setting. Still had a problem (see lean pic), so set it to a richer setting this morning (see rich pic).

CARBURETOR metering screws - They were set at 2 full turns each. I gently closed them and reset them at 1-1/2, as recommended by manual. I really don't know the method for setting them by listening to the engine.

DRIVING TEST I drove to the gas station without any problems with the car dying, but after filling up, I had a heck of a time restarting. On the way home it was hesitating like it was running out of fuel.

IDLE TEST At home, it idled without dying. I shut it off. Very hard to restart. I opened the meters to 1-3/4 turn, set the auto choke to the richer setting and let it idle. I started adjusting the Idle Screw and checking the RPM with a digital meter that is very difficult to point at the damper and also see the reading. It was running at around 480 RPM. The manual says 375 is correct. In the process, I noticed that air was bubbling inside the filter and that the level of fuel in it was at 20%.mktx.com/packard/12312002AirBubblesInFilter1.MOV
I shut it off. It was hard to restart. This time I turned on the 6v electric fuel pump that feeds the mechanical fuel pump.

The engine stayed lit, but I panicked when it died and gas came overflowing out of the top of the carburetor. You might have to look hard to see how wet it is. I couldn't film it right away because I was running for a towel in the garage.
mktx.com/packard/12312003GasOverflow.MOV

This situation is ruining my New Years. If you have any suggestions, please offer them. They would be most appreciated.

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With regard to the automatic choke setting, I'd suggest disregarding the index marks which may no longer be reliable and simply adjusting it so that, with a warm engine at idle, the choke valve is fully open with slight tension holding it in that position.

With regard to the idle mixture screws, easiest to adjust is with a vacuum gauge on the intake manifold, warm engine at idle, choke fully open. What you want to achieve is maximum vacuum consistent with the leanest mixture. So one at a time, open a screw until vacuum no longer increases, then screw it in (leaning the mixture) until the vacuum just begins to drop, and open just a hair. Ditto with the other screw, then back to the first.

If you've got good hearing you can get a decent adjustment without the vacuum gauge by starting with a rich adjustment and then gradually leaning it (screwing in) until you get the faintest indication of the motor begining to falter, the richen a hair and do the same with the other mixture screw. Then back to the first to confirm. Warm engine at idle of course, choke valve fully open.

Gas overflowing the top of the carburetor is either the failure of the needle and seat, a stuck or leaking float, or excessive fuel pressure from the pump, often the consequence of an electric pump.

That's Very helpful, Dave. Thanks so much. I do have a pressure gauge.

I was going to do a pressure check on the fuel going to the filter with my sister's help pressing the starter with the ignition off.

Also, shouldn't that fuel filter be completely full when the engine is running?
Should those air bubbles be present?

I RARELY run the electric fuel pump, unless I have vapor lock, but I turned it on to see if I wasn't getting enough fuel, but of course it over flowed.

The floats should stop gas coming into the carb and prevent that overflow, right?

Anyway, not anxious to remove the top of the carb. It was rebuilt by Daytona, but they didn't set the floats correctly and the car would stall out as soon as it had a load. They fixed it, but I wonder if it's a problem float. Not sure how hard it is to correct. I will work on the other issues in the meantime and report results.

Thanks again.