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We always just used Permatex on freeze plugs when installing.

I'm glad to hear the new shocks are working well. I ordered the same ones for my '54 and hope to install them this week or next. I have no idea what's on there now, but the driver's front shock is broken, causing that side to lean.

Anything special to remove the front shocks? The service manual wasn't totally clear to me, and the pictures in the scanned copy are pretty blurry. Wheels off on the front to do it? Lift the vehicle? The back ones should be pretty straightforward, as long as I can get the bolts loose.

-Kevin

Took "Madelyn" for a drive today. Temperature outside was around freezing,and with the heat on my engine temp got up to normal operating temp going up a long hill, but would drop to about 1/2 warm going downhill and afterwards. Could that be the thermostat sticking open, or is that common with these cars? I thought it should stay fully warm. I think I will have to take care of a leaky radiator soon. Looks like I have a leak near the lower hose.....
Happy New Year

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Mike, I'm curious to hear the answer to your question as well. I don't know much about the cooling characteristics of these cars and would like to understand what typical operation is.

Love the color on the car.

-Kevin

Good afternoon...Our experience with our 1949 is that really cold weather or really hot weather, there is an actual effect on the Packards engine...we have a 151 degree thermostat...if my memory is working...and that is good most of the time...sometimes the engine will run just at 151 and as the weather warms...it will climb toward 190 or so if she is going up hill on a summer morning...we need others to chime in and let us know how their cars react...Seems to me that Mal's 50 ran on the hot side when he first purchased it...don't remember the fix...Ernie in Arizona

Hi Kevin, the color scheme is from a 56 packard. Jade and shannon green I think. It is lively and bright compared to the original green Tone from 53.
I have the brass thermostat holder from PI, so I will check if the Thermostat fits and seals well in there.
Hi Ernie, depending on timing, coolant sys condition and fuel mixture, some cars will run cooler or hotter. This car never gets too hot, but I would like for it to warm up as quickly as possible.
Getting rolling on some winter projects....

I removed the radiator and water neck from the car...There was a pinhole where the lower tank is soldered to the core, so I will try and get that fixed at a radiator shop nearby.
I found that the thermostat was not fitting squarely and not sealing properly in the housing. I have a new stant 180 degree t-stat, so I am doing a little grinding on the t-stat and housing to get a nice clean fit there.
That should make the warm up time less, and better control the engine at the proper operating temperature. Before, the t-stat was letting a good bit of water through even when closed, so I think that explains why the engine cooled back down after being warmed up.
Stant offers economy, standard and premium t-stats, anybody ever try a premium t-stat?
I have an economy t-stat. I checked the operation in hot water on the stove, and it worked fine.
-I'll post pictures in a later post. I'm glad the website is back online!!!

Here are a few pics of the radiator. The location of the leak is circled in silver paint marker...Hope I can get this fixed, and do not need a whole new core.
The old t-stat was too wide on the "bridge" that goes over the top and did not seat properly. The new t-stat fits better in my water neck. (opening diameter is the same)
You can also see the notch I dremeled so that I can install the t-stat in the housing.
I am thinking about sanding the mating surface of the water neck where the t-stat fits in so that the t-stat can seal better. This would allow the t-stat to really block water from circulating when closed, but I might be fixing one thing and making another problem...trapped air, or thermal shock when the t-stat opens in cold weather and cold water goes into the block....Any opinions on if I should leave good enough alone, or try and make a super-performing t-stat?
Thanks!

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A little coolant circulation while the t'stat is closed is considered by many to be desirable. Some of us have even drilled a small hole in the t'stat to allow for this.

When re-assembling the car a few years ago, I glued on the horizontal window fuzzies, but was never happy with that. I finally got some #4 flathead sheetmetal screws and attached the fuzzies nice and straight and secure. I had also used some thick lube on the door lock mechanism that made it very sticky in cold weather. I cleaned that with brake cleaner and re-lubed with some light oil. The spring on the vent window was also tight, so I oiled the pivot and loosened the nut. Now the vent window opens without a fight. Spring is coming! Pass door is done, next up is the driver side.... Details, Details, Details

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