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Re: The Duchess Project: 1940 Super 8 Convertible Sedan
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Joe Santana
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CARBURETOR MOUNTING: Big boo-boo, not mounting the Stromberg carburetor with a 1/2" spacer. So besides adjusting the Heat Control Valve, I dismounted the Stromberg, ordered longer mounting studs (#94358A270 Hex Drive Threaded Rod, 5/16"-18 Thread to 5/16"-24 Thread, 2" ) from McMaster-Carr disconnecting the vacuum advance tube, the automatic choke heater tube, the throttle guard vacuum tube, and the fuel line on the forward side of the glass bowl fuel filter, and the accelerator rod. This helped quite a bit to eliminate the gas percolating and flooding out after a long idle with the engine at operating temp.
I modified a 1/2" wrench to grasp the mounting nuts.

For the right forward nut, Stromberg didn't leave much clearance. I had to lift the carb in order to start the nut, which you can only do if none of the other nuts are tight, which they were, of course.

I know this is basic, but perhaps useful some day.

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Posted on: 1/24 9:14
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Re: The Duchess Project: 1940 Super 8 Convertible Sedan
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Joe Santana
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CARBURETOR PARTS
When the problem didn't go away, and with advice from above (posts), I ordered a parts kit and new floats from Daytona.
I rebuilt this Stromberg 10 years ago, but screwed up somewhere and used the old Carter I had, so in 2018 I sent it to Daytona for rebuild. I really blydon't trust my rebuilding, but I was so frustrating to have the car die at a traffic light and be hard to restart, I was desperate.
I dismounted the carb again, opened it up and replaced the easy stuff:
19-Pump Piston Assembly
12- Float Lever Pin
13-Float Assembly
14-17 Needle and Seat, hanger etc
Setting the float height was the biggest challenge, at the time, since there is no instruction on how to do it. The float itself was $50 and a bit fragile. I was not anxious to bend and break it trying to make it level with the float chamber bottom at the correct height.
Finally I held it with the snip nose pliers and bent it.
I remounted the carb and voila! No more dying and flooding.

Posted on: 1/24 9:40
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Re: The Duchess Project: 1940 Super 8 Convertible Sedan
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Joe Santana
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FREE WHEELING IN STANDARD GEAR
So of course "It's always something with that car." After driving an hour in overdrive, when I pulled off the freeway at a stoplight and pulled it out of overdrive, let out the clutch, and CLUNK. Now everything works, both in and out of overdrive, (I drove home an hour without incident), but my standard gears, out of overdrive, are freewheeling when I let off the gas.

I was having a problem with the overdrive cable trying to engage itself. I added a washer to where the cable connects under the car, which stopped it for awhile, but then it started doing it again. I took the suggestion to cut a piece of plastic housing used to hide cable and slipped it over to hold the OD lockout switch out.

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Posted on: 1/24 9:56
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Re: The Duchess Project: 1940 Super 8 Convertible Sedan
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Joe Santana
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Put 2 feathers in my cap. The carb works fine now with new float, needle valve and pump plunger. The free-wheeling in standard is gone as well. My OD cable was extended too far so I screwed the clevis on about as far as it would go, reconnected and now everything in tranny and OD works as it should. I haven't driven enough to be sure the OD cable doesn't creep back, but it didn't do it on the 2 mi. test drive and around the neighborhood.

I wish I could sort out the kick-down. It has to be electrical. Something not connected that breaks the circuit to kick it back into standard gears, allowing the pawl to extract.

But otherwise, I'm a happy camper.

Posted on: 1/25 11:07
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Re: The Duchess Project: 1940 Super 8 Convertible Sedan
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HH56
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Condensed version of R9 Kickdown operation.

When the unit is in OD relays R1 and R2 are energized so contacts B and D in the relay box will be closed and C will be open. Contacts A in the solenoid will be closed because the plunger is extended.

When kickdown is desired, the kickdown switch is activated by the accelerator linkage and opens. That removes the ground coming from the governor to terminal 5 and causes relay 1 to drop out. Because of the way relay 2 is powered from relay 1 and goes thru the solenoid hold coil as well as some spring tension on its armature, its contact action slightly lags the other relay and remains closed for a few added milliseconds before opening.

With relay 1 turned off, solenoid is released but the mechanical motion of the plunger is slower because of its mass and being held in position by torque. Ground flows from 6 on the solenoid thru still closed contacts B and still closed contacts C to exit the relay and short out the ignition to cause the engine to lose torque and release the plunger to drop out of OD.

That short only lasts for a few milliseconds — the manual says a “few” spark pulses at driving speed. Contacts C will open with the loss of power to relay 1 when it opened to drop out the solenoid and in effect controls the length of the ign short. A few milliseconds after C opens, so does B as a safety backup contact and then finally A to permanently remove the ground to the ignition cutout circuit. Because all this is supposedly a carefully timed sequence the engine does not die. Where things go south is when for whatever reason one of the relay contacts (usually C) delays opening. Too long a delay or a ground being available when not in OD and the ign short remains long enough to cause the engine to die.

When the reason for kickdown is over, if the car is still going at speed, ground will be available thru the governor. Letting off the full accelerator to drop down to cruising speed will let the kickdown sw close again. Relay 1 will re energize, solenoid can engage if you momentarily let off the gas and you are back in OD with everything reset for the next time.

If you want to read thru the Econodrive training manual there is a professional description of the exact sequence with all the terminals and pathways described.

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Posted on: 1/25 12:12
Howard
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Re: The Duchess Project: 1940 Super 8 Convertible Sedan
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Joe Santana
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Thanks for this summary, Howard. I read the manual last night, which suggested what I needed to do to get out of free-wheeling (adjust cable at the OD lockout under the car). It'll follow this step by step to see if anything fails, esp at the relay.

Posted on: 1/25 12:23
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Re: The Duchess Project: 1940 Super 8 Convertible Sedan
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Joe Santana
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OVERDRIVE KICKDOWN FUNCTION:
1. I tested the delay between the top #1 to #4 contacts and the bottom Term #3-6 contacts and made a video of the manual test. I could also hear the #6 click in the solenoid. www.mktx.com/packard/ODContactDelay.MOV

2. I checked the continuity of all the wires in the circuit with a multimeter.
a. Terminal#5 to the RHLockout switch
b. RH Kickdown switch to LH Lockout switch
c. LH Kickdown switch to OD Extension Junction
d. OD Extension Junction to Governor
e. Terminal#2 to LowTension Distributor

I'm very suspicious of the connector. I cleaned it and plugged the wires into it, and wrapped it with tape because it seem loose. I'm going the Ace to get alligator clips to gin up a longer wire to test from the LH Kickdown through the junction to the Governor.
I'll get a new connector and some shrinking insulation to hold it.

f. I tested the continuity and break of the Kickdown switch by having my sister press all the way down the accelerator. It breaks the circuit.

g. I tested the Lockout switch with it pushed in (continuity) and pulled out (break) and that works.

h. The Governor functions correctly, turning on/off the red OD light indicator at proper speeds.

So I'm really focused on the junction wire.

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Posted on: 1/27 9:08
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Re: The Duchess Project: 1940 Super 8 Convertible Sedan
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Joe Santana
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I retested continuity for the wire from the LH kickdown switch terminal to the OD extension and I can't get continuity. I'm going to add a wire bypassing the existing one that goes through the OD sheath and retest the kickdown.
But not til the morrow

Posted on: 1/27 15:57
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Re: The Duchess Project: 1940 Super 8 Convertible Sedan
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Joe Santana
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I was able to get continuity from kickdown to OD extension, from extension to governor, and from kickdown to governor with the connector firmly attaching the 2 wires at the extension.

I test drove it and the kickdown did not work. I connected the 2 wires firmly and slipped over a heat shrink insulator to hold them.

This is as far as my ability goes. I will wait for Ross to return. Everything else is working re OD.

Posted on: 1/28 11:55
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Re: The Duchess Project: 1940 Super 8 Convertible Sedan
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d c
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Just a lil advice. Be careful with continuity test of wires with a digital volt ohm meter as there can be one strand of a multi strand wire intact with all others fletch broken or corroded. This will test “good” with the meter setup you are employing and not light a bulb or operate a solenoid! There may be other faults but I suspect if you do the same test with a 12 v bulb or proper automotive test light (not led) you will find a component or wire that will not flow enough current. BTW- do not use current draw test lights in modern computer controlled circuits in this fashion. Good luck. If you are unsure how to isolate a circuit and energize with test light - please say so and ask.
6v dry cell and 6 v bulb fine also.

Posted on: 1/29 8:12
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