Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

Nylon I think is to hard.

Here are 55 dimensions I use. The white are made from smooth on

The black. Flexane. I'm trying 94. I used 80 they have been on axle for 5 years.

Max meritt. Kanter for bushings. Or if you want Dwight has a kit.

Attach file:

---

  20210210_053535.jpg (194.90 KB)

Flexane is cast polyurethane. The grade is the nominal Shore A hardness. I say nominal because you can't really measure a 94, it would be Shore D scale.

Thank you Ross for being sharp sighted. I need to to do alot more apparently.

- Dwight has a kit.- Who is he and that is his price?

Max meritt or Kanter, i am having trouble finding the right parts for the lists...

------------------------------------------

Some wiring work

Attach file:

---

  20210212_064746.jpg (175.01 KB)


  20210212_071530.jpg (238.76 KB)


  20210212_071541.jpg (271.20 KB)

Info in the Directory:

Heinmuller Packard Parts
General line of Packard parts, 1941-1956. Parts locator service. Many new parts not available elsewhere.
Dwight Heinmuller
Ph: 4103293022
packardparts.org
packardparts@comcast.net

Here is the link to Dwight's website where you can see some of what he offers.packardparts.org

If you need new solenoids Cole-Hersee replacements can be bought at some parts stores or from ebay vendors. While TL solenoids look like an ordinary starter solenoid, they are NOT. The TL solenoids need a ground which is provided by the control switch to operate. There are two versions available. DIfference is which large terminal gets power so the end cap will be oriented the proper direction and solenoid will fit the bracket and buss bar(s). Depending on how yours are oriented in the bracket pick the one needed.

Attach file:

---

  Cole Hersee Pair TL solenoids.jpg (124.91 KB)

So, if i drive my levelling motor aroud and position it like in the picture, i can remove those small bars and levelling motor and gear?

Attach file:

---

  torsionbar.png (474.96 KB)

Not necessarily. I suspect the factory photo was taken on a car which had minimal accessories so not as heavy as some others. Where the lever winds up is entirely dependent on how much weight is in the car, how that weight is positioned in relation to front or back, or how the car and rear axle is being supported while you are working on it.

I would start with the lever at the 1/2 inch shown in the photo but then reach up and see if you can twist or rotate the transverse bar. Keep moving the lever one way or the other until the transverse bar feels loose and you can jiggle or rotate it slightly. You may also hear or feel a point where the strain on the motor or method used to rotate the compensator lessens as load goes away. That will be the spot when all the tension has been neutralized. On some heavy optioned cars or if while you are working, the rear axle is hanging differently than it is at normal riding height the lever can be in a different spot than the photo shows.

Ok, so i just have to find right angle but removing these bars is possible.

My system is assembled incorrect..

Attach file:

---

  20210322_163542.jpg (427.26 KB)

It is incorrect now but what probably happened is a solenoid stuck or a limit switch failed or was bypassed and the motor drove the compensator more than the few degree range it normally works in. It was driven to the point the bars switched sides and are now 180 out from where they should be. That is evidenced by the bend in the one bar where the motor tried to drive it thru the center of the compensator unit. From that point on everything it tries to do automatically would be opposite of what is needed.

Since it apparently kept driving there is a possibility the spines sheared off the final output link but if the fuse was blown in time then possibly only a bent bar and no or minimal internal damage occurred.

If the motor is still able to drive the compensator you can disconnect the two wires at the motor and then power the motor with a jumper wire and drive the bars back to normal position without disassembling anything. You only need one heavy jumper wire from the battery post and only use one motor terminal. Touching power to one of the terminals drives clockwise and the other counterclockwise. If you do this keep a close eye on things as it moves to ensure it is driving in the proper direction and bars do not try to wrap around center again. After that you will need to find out if a manual switch was added and miswired or if no manual switch then the functional status of the limit switches and solenoids.

Obviously, if you cannot drive it electrically or by removing the motor and moving things manually with a large screwdriver or drag link socket or blade on a ratchet wrench or drill motor then the bars will need to disconnect and the compensator removed for repair.

I got the Levelmotor removed and the bent parts straightened. Before I reinstall it, I would like to know if the bars shown in the pictures are in the correct positions? The frame of the car is on the stands and the tires are in the air.

Attach file:

---

  Passanger side(right).jpg (131.02 KB)


  Driver side(left).jpg (118.08 KB)