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Kevin can you describe what ‘warped’ means? Perhaps the NAPA technician that observed the drum/hub on the lathe could be helpful. Now that you’re all ‘buttoned-up’ with respect to the bearings, you could mount the drum/hub, and spin the drum to assess the radial/axial ‘run-out’ if it exists.

I think for at least in the short term you will be reinstalling what you have and get the car back home. The question then becomes which set of shoes should be installed while you hunt for a replacement drum/hub. Also just because you know that at some point in time that side will be disassembled do not skimp on the guidance pertaining to proper torqueing of the axle nut.

I can’t believe there isn’t a new drum part number out there that after some machining could be riveted/bolted to the Packard hub.

dp

If you need brake parts, call Jeff Adkins at Moose Motors in Pengrove CA (NorCal) 707 792-9985
packardguy54@sbcglobal.net

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I'm not really sure what exactly they meant by "warped" on the drum. The guy that attempted to turn it wasn't there when I picked them up today. Talking to a few guys, and doing some reading on the interwebs, I've decided that I'm just going to put it back on and see what it does. If it's not causing a problem then I won't worry about it. If it does cause a problem then I figure something out.

Not a lot of progress today. At least not as much as I wanted. I worked on getting the rear brakes back together. That involved me first thinning out the brake shoe web where the adjuster sits. Didn't take too long. I painted over the metal to protect it after I ground it off.

Both sides were then reassembled using my blasted and repainted parts. It all looks so nice, but it'll hopefully never be seen again. New hold down springs. I used the old pins since the new ones were way too long. Everything else was reused.

The front-back brake line was finished and connected. I joined two lengths together on the inside of the rail. Bending them was not hard. The nice thing about this Napa line is that it can easily be bent using your hands. But each length comes with a short and long fitting. The long ones freak me out because it looks like they aren't tightened enough.

Also filled the rear diff with new 80W-90 gear oil.

I cleaned up business side of the warped drum with some find sandpaper, then cleaned both with brake cleaner.

And that's where things came to a grinding halt. The drums will not fit over the new shoes, even with the adjusters turned all the way in. It looks like the pads are too thick....too much meat on them. Now what?

-Kevin

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Dumb question but is the parking brake cable disconnected under the car?

Not dumb, Don. That’s something I’d do.

Make certain that the shoes are resting on the anchor pin. It does appear that your e-brake arms are pulled.

You've probably seen this excellent video that Ross produced...
But just in case:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1Zc3aW18Z4

You may have to have the linings cut down by a shop with tooling to fit the shoes to the drum. Its a good idea on any brake job to arc the shoes to fit the drums.
Good luck.

Well shoot, I didn't disconnect the parking brake cable under the car. The parking brake is off, and I assumed that would be enough. But maybe not.

It does appear that all the shoes are in close contact with the anchor pin. But maybe the parking brake is pushing them ever so slightly out?

If everything is seated correctly then it looks like I get to disassemble it all (again) and find somewhere to have the shoes reduced.

-Kevin

With the rears (hopefully) getting buttoned up soon, I'm turning my attention back to the front. The front brakes and drums are good to go, and I was considering leaving the lines alone in the front, since they were replaced whenever the dual master cylinder was installed.

However, when I look at the set up in the front, I hate it. There are lines everywhere and it is ugly. It looks like there is some sort of proportioning valve installed. I can't tell if the rear line is on a separate circuit than the fronts.....i.e. does one cylinder actually go to the rear and one to the front.

School me on this....if I have wheel cylinders with the same size bore as original, and am keeping the original drums, I don't need a proportioning valve, right? I should have one cylinder going straight to the rear, and one going to a junction block and split between the front, right?

I'm not going to go back to the BTV just yet.....going to roll with what I have for now. But I want to be sure I have it set up right for safety.

-Kevin

You could also check that the upper adjusting point is centered. If that is at one extreme, it might make it impossible to get the drums on.
If the drum is oval, you will get some pulsing in brake torque when braking....depending on how bad it is, it might be annoying.