Re: Questions: Heater Control Valve, Blower Motor, 1953 Cavalier (also progress update)
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If your blower wheel is anywhere close to being as tight on the shaft as my AC wheel was you will have a project to get it off. You cannot use anything to pry or pull behind the wheel because the sheet metal is too flimsy and the wheel will bend. Maybe your starter place will have a proper puller but if not here is what I did.
I wound up buying a split collar to fit the hub diameter.https://www.mcmaster.com/split-shaft-collars/ I got as close to the hub diameter as I could and still have the clamp be able to show a small gap when it was tightly clamped together. Used a small 3 jaw gear puller under the collar but even then found the hub so tight the collar would slide off. Finally wound up drilling and tapping a hole in the middle of each of the collar halves and threaded in a pointed end set screw which would bottom into two slight depressions I drilled into the hub. That did the trick and a wheel puller could then pull it from the shaft via the hub side. The heater valve does need some kind of capillary tube as that is what senses temp and provides the pressure to work the mechanism. First valves had a long tube with a sensing bulb on the end but for 1951 on the valves had the tube coiled up in about a 1" wide and long coil and mounted to the side of the housing where it would be in airflow provided by a small opening in the side of the plenum box.
Posted on: 2021/5/23 18:49
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Howard
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Re: Questions: Heater Control Valve, Blower Motor, 1953 Cavalier (also progress update)
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Home away from home
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Well, the auto/marine electric shop is looking into my heater motor. Hoping they can fix it.
I cleaned up my heater valve by soaking it all day in Evapo-Rust, and it cleaned up pretty nice. I could move everything by hand. But I put it in a pan of hot water and tried the lever in the position with least spring pressure applied, and the valve didn't move. Seems like the brass temperature-expansion disc is toast. So now trying to figure out what to do next. Also noted that the rubber seal was in bad shape and it would probably be leaking any day now if I put it back in. The other thing I did (bad) was trying to free up the heater control cables, two of them broke, up at the control lever attachment point. Has anyone ever been able to replace those without taking out the dash? I saw this source for them on an earlier post, but I have to figure out what the lengths are first, I guess. Bowden Heater Control Cables from NAPA Finally, the one wire that I know I have to replace in the dash is the wire to the backup lights. Wow that is way up there, maybe I will be able to reach that without taking out the dash.
Posted on: 2021/5/24 22:49
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Re: Questions: Heater Control Valve, Blower Motor, 1953 Cavalier (also progress update)
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Posted on: 2021/5/24 23:30
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Mal
/o[]o\ ==== ![]() Bowral, Southern Highlands of NSW, Australia "Out of chaos comes order" - Nietzsche. 1938 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD 1941 One-Twenty Club Coupe - SOLD 1948 Super Eight Limo, chassis RHD - SOLD 1950 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD What's this? ![]() Put your Packard in the Packard Vehicle Registry! Here's how! Any questions - PM or email me at ozstatman@gmail.com |
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Re: Questions: Heater Control Valve, Blower Motor, 1953 Cavalier (also progress update)
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Home away from home
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Thanks! I'm working on it...
Posted on: 2021/5/25 0:53
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Re: Questions: Heater Control Valve, Blower Motor, 1953 Cavalier (also progress update)
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Home away from home
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If the thermostat bulb element is "toast", there's no replacements. You have to find a "good" one and have it changed. I had to do this for the Cad.
For the most part they aren't made to take apart, but people have learned to. The guy that repairs them is Tucker's, www.heatercontrolvalve.com and as far as I know he's the last. He and a son do this and Jim's up there in age - older than I. He uses the telephone. I sent two in to get one back. Usually, if the seal is gone, they leak and don't shut off. There are some universal electric ones out there that can be used, but getting to fit is trial and error and 6V complicates life. Manual valve on a cable is another option. Some just by-pass. Everyone goes through this as a period owner/restorer if they want heat.
Posted on: 2021/5/25 8:35
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Re: Questions: Heater Control Valve, Blower Motor, 1953 Cavalier (also progress update)
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Home away from home
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Good news: Buchannan Auto Electric (Oakland, CA) said they can repair the heater motor.
I took my valve apart and verified that the little copper expansion disc is not responding to temperature, probably it has a leak. Also I noticed it had what looked like a clip to seal off where the capillary tube was. It may be a project for me to fix over time, from what I understand it wasn't filled with any fluid, just sealed. From what Danchuk says, in 1955-56 Chevy replaced the capillary tube with a clip, maybe this is the same clip. Danchuck replacement 1955-56 Ranco Heater Control Valve I also found a valve from Packard Seattle, will see how that one works, and good to compare with whatever I can do to repair mine over time. Attach file: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Posted on: 2021/5/25 12:24
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Re: Questions: Heater Control Valve, Blower Motor, 1953 Cavalier (also progress update)
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If the Chevy valve will fit our opening and screw holes line up with the mounting brackets so the clip or tube gets positioned to sample the temp of the air coming out of the plenum box that is a darn good price. Not sure I would even mess with the old one anymore. In spite of all your work it may still not function anyway. The longer input tube might be a visual issue but since the hose for that tube comes from the head I doubt it would cause a problem because of any sharp bends.
On your earlier comment on the cables. They can be easily changed without too much effort except you fitting under the dash. There is a screw which bites onto the outer housing and a loop which fits over a pin on the lever. The loop is retained by a clip. Remove the clip, pull the loop off the pin and loosen the screw. The cable assy will slide back so the wire can fit thru a sort of slot in the space where the circle and screw holding the cable becomes part of the lever assy. Here is the 54-6 assembly. 51-3 is similar except there are two cables on each side so two clamps and two pins on the levers. The screws holding the cable housing are pointing downward so you can get a screwdriver on them and are not really visible in this photo.
Posted on: 2021/5/25 12:47
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Howard
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Re: Questions: Heater Control Valve, Blower Motor, 1953 Cavalier (also progress update)
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Home away from home
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Thanks! I was able to get the entire assembly out, just 2 screws (getting it back in might be a problem
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Posted on: 2021/5/26 14:03
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