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Yeah, It is a pain.I had to lift the front of the motor to get it off.Quarter inch of sludge in there.I found it up by the lifters as well.I got as much as I could out. I am also going to do a quick change on Her.Just to see how clean the oil is now.And for piece of mind.Probably doesnot need to be but I figure its cheap insurance.Like my old two-cycle engines. (Old outboard motors.)I would rather use a little more oil than risk damaging one of my old toys. Brian

Reflecting back to the original post...

If anyone has a lead on non ethanol gas, please share!

There is another reason for using synthetic oil in old long stroke engines and that is piston speed. It used to be a rule of thumb that your piston speed should not exceed 2500FPS or piston, cylinder and ring wear would increase rapidly.

This was not a big problem until superhiways were built. Until then sustained speeds over 50 were not seen very often.

I remember a Packard press release from when the new OHV V8 was introduced. They said at high speeds the new engine had a life of over 100,000 miles compared to 18,000 miles for the old engine. Before you get too shocked, reflect that Packard had the best high speed test track in the business. That 18,000 mile life probably reflects many test cars driving at speeds of 90 to 100 continuously.

In view of this would synthetic oil extend the life of a long stroke car engine being driven at today's hiway speeds? Specifically by reducing bearing and cylinder wear?

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Short answer, of course it will. The "problem" with synthetic oil is that people try to put it in an old, worn out engine with dried up seals and gaskets. Result? It leaks oil all over the place. Now, with a freshly rebuilt and broken in engine with all new seals and gaskets, you'll have no such problems, and a longer lasting engine. I have to say that when I get my engine rebuilt, (which is up in the air right now) it'll be using Mobil 1 10W40.

On the subject of the oils,zinc and phosphorus were mainly taken out due to the fact that almost every engine built in the last 10 to 20 years are "roller" motors. they don't wear the same as a "flat tappet" engine. usually a "race" oil like the valvoline mentioned earlier will still have the additives. that would be due to the fact that a lot of race engines still are "flat" motors. As for the fuel, i don't know of any without the "e" junk. and my uncle tells me some of our old customers have advised him recently that it is eating up the old formula of gas tank sealers we used. he has done some research and found out that the suppliers are now reformulating to compensate for this. so if you are about to have you tank redone, make sure the correct type is used! Otherwise you'll have fuel lines plugged solid with the junk!


p.s. for those who did not know, Crane Cams has just gone out of business. about 2 years ago the got hit hard with warranty issues when the oils were changed. john q public not knowing about that cause massive amounts of "flat" cams to be destroyed on break-in!

greendragon ethanol also has a voracious appetite for rubber fuel lines and plastic bodied fuel filters. A friend of mine had to reseal the tank on his farmall for the same reason. ethanol ate right through it!