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FYI Gents,

I received my new modem for our DSL today and had the same problem with it connecting. Read the trouble shooting guide and it stated that a dimmer switch in the area of the modem can cause slow or intermittent connection. I turned off the basement light which we have on a dimmer and is ruffly 15ft away and wham fast connection again. So my old modem probably wasn't bad in the first place.

Okay now I can get some sleep and back to working on Old BESSIE :)

Update:

Tomorrow my younger brother will be coming over the help me drop the lower half of then engine back in and hopefully if time permits get the trans reinstalled. Ahh two less things to trip over in the garage.

When I had the lower half of the engine sent out to Harts machine in Ohio they sent the clutch off to Fort Wayne Clutch to have it refurbished. It is reinstalled but I am not sure how to go about checking the adjustments. Harts may have done it already. Looks like I need to make a call tomorrow to see if they did. If not does anyone have a procedure to check it?

Wednesday we will hit the body if all goes well on Tuesday. Plans for the body prep is to clean off dust then hit it with 80 grit paper on a DA (Ryobi), then hit her with some wax&grease remover, some metal prep (Picklex) since the body had been sand blasted last year there is some signs of surface rust which is what the Picklex is for. Once dry I will scuff her down and give her a coat of Epoxy Primer. With colder weather coming I wanted to get this done before then. Don't want her sitting bare again through another winter.

Will post pictures of progress.

If anyone is interested I have uploaded some new pictures to my photo bucket.

s153.photobucket.com/albums/s210/packin31/

Here are a few of them

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Other than the final adjustment of pedal free play, you should be VERY reluctant to even consider any clutch adjustments without first driving the car to be sure they are needed. Any pressure plate rebuilder worth his salt (and Ft. Wayne if very good) would have already made the adjustments to insure that the pressure plate is flat and parallel to the mounting surface and thus to the flywheel.

Tom,

Pleased to see the photo's of your car, it look's good.

Guess I will post this here also to see if anyone of you know.

I just got in from HB priming the rumble seat lid, the top part of the hood, golf door and cowl vent. Was going to do doors also but ran out of primer. Time to order some more.

I have a question to anyone that does this for a living how much primer, paint is used in painting a car like mine?

I have gone through a 1 3/4 gallon epoxy primer and 1 gallon of HB primer. The HB build was just the doors, two top pieces of the hood, rumble seat lid, golf door and cowl vent. Not all pieces have had the final HB on them either.

Tom -

While I don't squirt paint for a living, I always did as much on my own cars as possible, but it's been nearly 20 years since I even did any touch-up repair (other than quick-n-dirty rattle can work).

That said, a lot has to do with product and technique. (I've gotten great results with some $40 guns that I found at swap meets.)

When it comes to product, I'd expect to use a lot more high-build primer than epoxy, as a lot of that is going to get sanded off. Yet it seems like you've used a lot of epoxy primer. Are you thinning/reducing as directed?

However, the bigger concern is for technique - your handling of the gun and its adjustments. If the gun is too far away or incorrectly adjusted, a lot of product might end up going into the air rather than on the target.

Take your hand and spread your fingers wide apart. The distance from the tip of your thumb and the tip of your pinky finger is a good guage for the distance between the tip of your gun and the target. Then, after checking your air supply pressure, spray a test pattern on a piece of scrap and adjust the air and fluid needles on your gun as needed. Also, know that even basic primers are pretty hard on a spray guns; best to have a new gun for topcoats and used older worn guns for primer.

Mind you, I've no experience (yet) with HVLP systems.

Brian,

I have been using "O can I say it here" a Harbor Freight HVLP purple gun which sprays pretty well. I have played with the adjustments per the paint forum from where I bought the primer from. Have had some up and downs but I think I have it dialed in pretty good for both the HB and Epoxy. I am thinking of buying another one that way I don't have to keep changing the tips out between primers.

Maybe my car is just in that ruff of shape I will need 10 gallons or so of the HB.

Maybe I am on pace with what I have used so far.

Thanks for you feedback.

Quote:

Tom I have no problem with people mentioning vendors, products, etc. How else will the rest of us know what is good, bad, and ugly.

If a vendor (or product) does something bad, and no one brings up the issue, then we have only ourselves to blame when it happens again. That said, when a vendor (or product)
does a great job, it should be reported also.

This way the market place place works like a self-cleaning oven. The bad vendors and products will eventually get burned off.

Plus I think most of us here do not have unlimited funds (I wish I even had limited funds ). So if we can learn what worked and didn't work, it helps the next guy save a few bucks it the process.

Kev,

Thanks for that. I finding out when you mention using cheaper product on other forums someone always have to come out and state that since you bought a cheap product what do you expect the outcome will be.

When it comes time to lay down the paint I will give the HF gun a test before spraying the car itself or I may just need to borrow a better gun from my brother's friend for the top coat.